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| 05-02-2006:
Argentina |
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Around
10pm last night an elderly gent was deposited
in the bed next to me. His blue and red swollen
feet looked painful. His wife pitched up at 12:00
to tend to his needs. Here family replaces nurses.
Why? Because there aren’t any nurses!
A
fitful night’s sleep ensued. Hot sweats
and the prods of pain as I moved my right arm
forgetting the think tube still inserted into
my vein. The room light was put on frequently
without thought for the inhabitants and for why
is unclear. In the morning I painfully peeled
my eyes open; the bright sunshine wasn’t
making this space anymore comforting. In the daylight
it was easier to see the dark dirty stains marking
the walls where they meet the ceiling. In places
it had begun to seep downwards. By 11am my drip
had been removed, an odd thing to do as I clearly
had no water and had received no visitors to bring
me water. I was getting really worried about Lisa
and imagined all types of bleak scenarios. I’d
even considered checking myself out and somehow
getting back to the hotel to check on her.
I’m
beginning to fell a little better but am still
unsure on my feet. Better enough to feel pissed
off as lunch was tossed begrudgingly onto the
small table, whilst my roommates was carefully
laid down, the lid removed and the table gently
moved round for his convenience. We have noted
a very anti-USA vibe; maybe they think I’m
form the USA. Lisa’s head popping round
the door around 1pm was the highlight of the day.
Ill as she was she still managed to get here and
even brought my wash bag and some water. It’s
been a very odd time not being with her. We’ve
hardly been apart for almost 3 years. To feel
her in my arms again felt great, the best kind
of medicine. She was still looking ill and her
lips pale. Against Lisa’s protest, I made
her lie down whilst I moved to a chair. She was
shaking; the thin sheet I’d slept in and
now pulled over her wasn’t helping. An hour
later we both knew she needed to be back at the
hotel, in the room and in bed. Lisa’s not
the best one for asking for help, again I’d
made her swear to call reception if she got worse.
And
so here I am. It’s now 4:45 pm, I’ve
seen no medical staff since 11am and my surroundings
are depressing me by the minute. At lest my fever
hasn’t returned and the little food I ate
at mid-day hasn’t been hurled from my body.
I’ve
been steadily testing myself all day, first with
sitting up, next moving a little and now I’ve
even managed 2-3 walks down the corridor, although
I’m still a little wobbly. The fact that
my fever hasn’t returned makes me think
its maybe gastroenteritis and not malaria. Mind
you, its still frustrating having tried to get
a diagnosis for 3 days and still not knowing.
Knowing what it isn’t would be a good start.
The
elderly lady who arrived last night to tend to
her husband is still here. She slept on a hard
metal chair by his bed, her head resting uncomfortably
on his bed. What makes all this so strange and
antiquated is that Mendoza looks so modern. Supermarkets,
fine restaurants, manicured lawns and state of
the art electrical goods being sold on every corner
and yet if you get ill you somehow get time warped
back to the 1800´s. The contrast is unsettling.
Umm….that
was interesting. It’s now 7pm and a young
female Doctor has just popped in to see me. She
asked if I had a fever now and I replied ´No´.
She then said if my fever returns to call her.
The only problem with this simple plan is that
I’ve never seen her before and before I
could ask her name she’d vanished,…….Er..OK.
8:30pm – funny how the simplest of kind
gestures can leave a mark. I’ve just managed
to practically eat the evening meal, but only
with the kind interruption of my elderly roommates.
As I lifted the thick plastic lid from the try
I knew I was in trouble, OK on the menu we have
chopped and diced tomatoes Freddy Kruger would
have been proud of, the ricey soup stuff, mashed
potatoes and my nemesis, a think cut piece of
meat covered in fat laden wet breadcrumbs. Here’s
my problem – my only weaponry is a small
slightly used plastic teaspoon. OK, I could handle
the potato and tomato and even drink the soupy
stuff but there was no way I could cut the meat.
Maybe I could hurt its feelings a bit but that
was going to be the extent of the damage I was
going to cause. Seeing my plight and with a discreet
chortle the elderly lady, who’d been tending
her husband all day, gently caught my attention,
reached into her handbag and offered me a knife
and fork. I could have hugged her; I didn’t
for fear of moving and projecting vomit on her-
that I didn’t think was polite.
So,
here’s the ´gig´, there are
no knives and forks, no water is provided, there
are no towels or loo paper, so a swift hand and
a douche of water comes in handy, (thank God for
acclimatisation in Morocco to that little task).
Going to the loo takes strategic planning. The
handle on the bathroom door is as useless as ´tits
on a fish´, so when the call of nature comes
here’s the technique, I wip off the sheet,
tie a know in one corner, place the knot over
the inside handle of the bathroom door, place
the other end through the very redundant towel-holder
and hold one end as I go about my business. When
done I re-enter our sick room victorious. Bloody
ridiculous, but you’ve got to see the funny
side. It’s like the Krypton Factors version
of bathroom technique. |
| 06-02-2006 |
|
Well
I’m writing this on the 7th as there was
no way I could write yesterday as I was battling
to remember my own name. I ended up getting little
or no sleep in the night of the fifth. I was feeling
pretty nauseas but people, patients, family or
medical staff seem to have no regards for anyone.
A solid wood door in the hallway bangs heavily
with every gust of breeze. Visitors stand in the
hallway holding conversations until 3:30 in the
morning with no attempt to lower their voices.
The elderly couple in my room took visitors and
mobile phone calls at 12:30 am and the backward
screech of raw metal on tiled floor as the ancient
chairs were moved around pierced my skull. At
3:30am my fever worsened and I began to sake.
By 5:30am was feeling awful and shaking uncontrollably,
even getting angry with the old couple who’d
been loaned a Nokia mobile with an alarm set to
5:15am. I explained in Spanish after they tried
to answer the call with ´Hola, hola´,
that it was an alarm and they needed to disable
it but when the alarm had rung for the 11th time
(I’d started counting) and they still answering
the dam thing with ´hola, hola´, only
louder, I was beginning to loose my rag.
By
8am I’d slept little and my shakes had become
worse, I felt so cold. A female physician popped
her head round the door but didn’t come
back. At 9am 7-8 physicians entered the room discussing
the symptoms of me and the old guy, great someone
will notice my state and do something, they even
sat on my bed, I could barely talk but I figured
my bed doing an impression of a washing machine
would do the job. Nope, inconvenienced by the
shaking bed they simply stood. 5 mins later and
in spite of my best efforts to get attention they
all left. I shouted “Chio” in angry
sarcasm, two of the dozy bitches even replied!
I was now battling rolling waves of nausea, the
idea of retching like I had a few days ago was
unbearable. I felt so alone, so helpless. Finally
the nausea won and I threw my body sideways, head
and shoulders over the bed and retch like a dog.
I wasn’t sick; there was nothing to bring
up. As the heaving continued I was only evacuating
the thin yellow bile from the deepest part of
my stomach. I felt exhausted. At lest the shaking
had stopped and now I was burning up.
The
elderly lady called for assistance and 10 mins
later a nurse/Doctor popped her head round the
door, took a look and left. An hour later a cleaner
came in to clear the mess. My God, what do you
have to do here to get attention…..die!!
I yelled angrily in Spanish ´this place
is crazy´! The old lady went to get more
help and an hour later a miserable lady I’d
seen twice before came into the room. I asked
for an intravenous drip, I know I was badly dehydrated
as I’d lost so much last night and my bed
was like a swimming pool. She obliged. However,
things were about to go downhill. Seconds after
she’d left the room my temperature sky-rocketed,
it was as if I could feel myself boiling. I was
panicky and could feel myself passing out. In
my panic I’d decided that it was the drip
– she’d put it in wrong or something.
I was trying feebly to pull it out. I think the
old lady was trying to stop me and calling for
help. That was all I remember, I passed out. I
came round briefly and remember being fanned by
her with a magazine and then I was gone again.
I came round and the miserable lady with her pearl-pointed
spectacles, complete with dangling neck strap,
was checking the drip and reparing the tape I’d
tried to tear off. The drip was helping and when
Lisa came in to the room my temp was almost normal.
When
Lisa came in it was all I could do not to burst
into tears. I needed help getting to the bathroom
as my legs were on holiday. By mid-afternoon I
was being wheeled downstairs, the medical consensus
here was that I needed another chest X-ray. I
wanted to shout its fucking malaria…..my
breathing is fine!´
By
mid to late afternoon a red-haired Doctor I’d
seen before can into the room. “Tenemos
una diagnosis”, we have a diagnosis, she
said. Unbeknownst to me whilst I was out cold
this morning they’d drawn more blood. The
blood lab was now open and it had been tested.
“Es malaria” she said triumphantly.
Funny, Lisa had been saying it was malaria since
Friday! However, it’s great because at least
we know what we’re dealing with. She drew
blood from Lisa and sent it off for testing. We
are hoping to get the results today (7th). Mind
you, it’s now 5pm so it looks unlikely.
My red-haired, white-robed Doctor explained they
still needed to determine which malaria it was
and without that they can’t commence treatment.
Lisa
left around 5pm looking the worst for wear, even
though we came to the hospital emergency room
together and with the same symptoms, she’s
received no medical care at all. She was ´getting
by´ on antibiotics and paracetamol that
I was prescribed by a doctor who was called by
the restaurant last week. Maurico, a very helpful
young medic and who had a little English was me
twice in the afternoon and assured me that we’d
know the specific malaria and start treatment
today.
|
| 07-02-2006 |
| OK…the
big day is here. This morning we’d know which
stain of malaria we are fighting and start medication.
I’d even managed a few hours sleep last night
and the nausea hadn’t retuned. By 12:00, when
Lisa came in, I’d seen no medical staff but
by 1:30pm I had spoken to Maurico who dropped a
bombshell…..they still don’t have my
lab results…..oh, and the hospital has no
malaria medication at all. Lisa was to stay with
me until 4:30pm and we saw Maurico twice more.
The
problem now is simple. The can’t order the
medication until my lab results tell the
strain of malaria. We’ve been promised the
results for today….guaranteed. It’ll
take one full day for the drugs to arrive. Its
now 5:45pm and I’m feeling fucking suicidal
as I’ve just been told that my results won’t
arrive until tomorrow, which means the drugs won’t
get here until the following day!!!!!! AAAAHHHGGGG!!
We then still have to try and get Lisa’s
results and treatment.
There
is absolutely no organization here….not
even bed charts, so one physician can pick up
where the other leaves off. There’s not
a picture on the wall and we’ve got elephant
cockroaches in the bathroom. I’ve managed
to get to the window twice. I was desperate to
look out and remind myself that there is another
world out there to return to.
After
thought for the evening – Warning, not for
the faint-hearted……The old guy I’m
sharing the room with does little but grin, groan,
burp and fart. Right now he’s in the loo,
the doors half ajar and from the noises he’s
making he’s giving birth to Tony Blair’s
evil twin and after will be in need of anal sutchering.
The noises are incredible.
|
| 08-02-2006 |
Weak
and wobbly or what???
An emotional roller-coaster of a
day.
I
was ready to knife someone this morning. With
the old guy next to me starting the morning where
hed finished off last night with a anal chorus
that a ‘Royal Guard Trumpeter’ would
have been pround, by 10:00am I was feeling the
worse for wear, but thank god the Naseau and endless
vomiting hasn’t returned, the thought of
that scares the crap out of me.
Maurico
had come in to see me around 11:00am, his forced
and inconvincing smile as he entered the room
was a bad sign. “Do with know the strain”
I asked nervously? “No! We will know tomorrow”,
Maurico answered like it was obvious. That was
I lost it...”What do you mean tomorrow?
You said today. This place crazy, it doesn’t
work. How can it be tomorrow…it’s
always sodding tomorrow…”and so on
and so forth. Unlike normal when an outburst might
make me feel better, this just left me feeling
sick and breathless. Lisa had just entered the
room during my ‘toy throwing’ spat.
She’d got the jist of what was going on.
The rad haired ‘blood specialist’
that had now joined Maurico just stood there…blank.
The idea of this place for another day was unbearable.
Maurico
did his best to defend the hospital but it was
pretty useless I’d turned off my ‘selective
hearing’. I wasn’t in the mood to
listen to anything he told me at that given point
I figured why bother he’s only going to
lie to my. With Hiensight, that was grossly unfair.
Maurico so far has ben the only one to keep me
in the picture and has done his best to reassure
me…god know s I’m thankful for his
English.
Well,
several hours later and to our complete suprise
Maurico returned, the smile on his face this time
being a somewhat more genuine version. “We
have the results”, He stated triumphantly.
“What” I retauted. “ You said
it was impoosible for the results today”.
“Yes but your blood is very heavily loaded
with Plasmodium Vivax, the result came through
quickly.” He offered. I’ve never been
so delighted to know why I was ill.
Anyway
long storey sideways. By mid afternoon, we were
clutching a presecription for anti-malaria drugs
and having wished my but talented room-mate well
I’d been discharged. The feeling of relief
was immnense. This place had for some reason really
gotten to me. I was practically in tears with
relief as Lisa helped my with the last set of
stairs and finally the glass doors to freedom
swung open and we were outide.
I’m
not going to write much more. Right now we’re
back at the Hotel San Martin, trying to sort out
the where’s and how’s of getting the
medication.
|
| 09-02-2006 |
| Day
in bed. "Give me drugs"!!! |
| 10-02-2006 |
| The
only activity for today was the taxi ride and a
blood test back at the hospital. God, I did not
want to set foot back in that place. In my head
I had this ‘Hotel California’ scenario
playing, where I’d go in but never leave.
With
blood taken easily and with me feeling a little
steadier on my feet we were soon back at the Hotel.
|
| 11-02-2006 |
| Bleary
eyes opened…what the hell that ringing. The
room was pitch black, we’d drawn the heavy
curtains. The small bedside phone was jingling merrily.
“Ola”, I mumbled vaguely, with a sickly
and bad Spanish accent”. The reception quickly
informed that We had a phone call from England.
To our surprise though instead of the chat with
family we’d expected it turned out to ‘Somerset
Sound Radio’ wanting to do an interview, having
heard form my Mum about the Malaria. There were
also doing some audience priming prier to the BC
documentary being shown on Monday. Even we were
surprised by how fast the phootage we’d just
shot with Will was going to air.
We
chatted live on air for about 10 minutes. I was
amazed how drained I felt post interview. The
effort and concentration had wiped me out
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click
here
to go to the next Argentinian installment |
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click
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| the
most depressing roomin the world |
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| trapped... |
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| en-suite??? |
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| yep!!!
that's my blood in the bin,after a failed introvenus attempt...nice,
eh? |
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| The
star...Maurico |
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| blood
test time |
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| doesn't
look to bad from the outside??? |
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