05-06-2004 : Botswana  

By mid-day we were finally ready to leave with the bags packed and belongings back in familiar places we said goodbye to Heine, Amanda and headed to the highway as they roared off in the opposite direction on the Harley. It had been a difficult good-bye and we were sad to be leaving, but Botswana couldn’t wait any longer.

Before long we were on the N4, which would keep us company for a long while. Twisty patches mixed nicely with faster straight sections and with the crest of each rise found. Immense plains stretched out in front of us dotted here and there with low mountains looking like islands in a green sea.

A short round lady dressed in brown was standing in the middle of the road franticly waiving at us! ‘Shit’, I thought it’s the police, for a second I thought she was group leader of the local brownies.

Pulling us both over she, and her serious looking colleague informed us that we were riding at 105 kph in a 80 kph zone and showed us the speed gun to prove it. “I have no doubt we were”, I replied, however neither Lisa nor I had seen any signs indicating that we were in an 80 zone. Off the bikes and now stood by the police car we were happily being informed that based on the fine table she was proudly holding we should have to pay R500.00. I” absolutely agree”, I retorted, but I don’t have R500. I explained I was from the UK and here on holiday and would be flying back in 4 days time. “What should I do?” I asked. With little hesitation the rounded smiling face was gone. “This time I think you should go, but watch the signs, OK”. We didn’t need asking twice and minutes later we were off again. Talk about relived.

By 3:30pm it was rest time, enough for a coffee anyway and only about 150 km from the Botswana border

.Botswana Border at GPS: S24 42.431 E26 05.685

Exit formalities were quickly arranged for our departure for leaving South Africa; our entry into Botswana was a little different. The road licence, which was 60 pula each, quickly went to 180 once it was discovered our bikes had been registered in the UK and a lengthy queue at the only exchange was slowing things up. By the time we sorted things it was getting dark. We needed to call Rashid to explain we’d be late, but of course all payphones were out of order. We managed to eventually call using a borrowed mobile from one of the customs officers. Unfortunately no answer. We only had his work number and by now the Toyota garage he operates had wound up for the day. A phone call to Heine in Pretoria turned up only that no one had Rashid’s home number…

We rode into Botswana’s capitol in the dark, breaking our second golden rule about not riding at night. The first one we’d broken was getting to a border after noon.

In spite of our frustration, everyone we’ve met has been so friendly and helpful. Apart from the two stoned guys in a BMW who tried to physically push Lisa and her bike off the forecourt of a petrol station. Those of you who know Lisa would realise that she wouldn’t take too kindly to this and despite the fact that these guys were as high as kites and that it was dark and we were in the Botswanan capital, Lisa decided that they should know of their misdemeanour!! ……They were oblivious –thank God!

By now it was getting late and despite having tried to locate the Toyota garage- just in case someone was there- we decided that travelling round the industrial areas in the dark was a ‘No go’. With no one who could give us any information (we had asked but not got any type of answers……….) we realised that finding the garage and a campsite was out of the question………. so booking into a budget hotel was the next best alternative. So here we are. Actually we are relived that we have somewhere safe for the bikes as we always worry when we are in cities – not for ourselves, just for the bikes!

The ‘hotel’ was a good find and we had a comfortable night – all for less than a Travelodge back in the UK but with the standards much higher. Find it at GPS: S24 40.201 E25 55.657

06-06-2004

The start to the day was much later than we had wanted but we meant to get as much for our money as possible and so stayed in the room until kicking out time – 11:00am. By the time we had the bags back and secured on the bikes it was 11:30 and this was much later than we had intended.

Today was just a straight drive up towards Francistown and our first night camping for a little while. Strangely we were both looking forward to it-- being back in our ‘home’!

We stopped only once as we crossed the ‘Tropic of Capricorn’ for our second time. GPS point: S23 30.003 E26 36.764

With the help of our ‘lonely Planets’ the Maranga Lodge was easily found at GPS: S21 11.950 E27 31.986 and at 30 Pula each was around £8, so much the same as European prices.

07-06-2004

Last night had been a bit chilly – we are both a bit ‘soft’ at the moment and will have to get used to the outdoor life again. But have we enjoyed the indoor life? Of course…it’s been absolutely great!

Up and one the road by 8am, we were heading for Nata and then onto Gweta – this whole area is the gateway to the Ntwetwe and Sowa Salt Pans.

With a few checks made at the Lodge at Gweta, it was the same old story…’NO BIKES ALOUD’ in the reserve.

We ended up doubling back the 100KM to Nata and staying at Nata Lodge at GPS: S20 13.528 E26 16.109.

Disappointingly we’ve also been told that most of the 4X4 tracks around the pans aren’t possible on bikes as they’re unusually still flooded after heavy rain fall. Even some 4X4 are battling. This means we’ll have to ride up using the A3 tar road. Comfortable but not exciting,

 


ok this part is over
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to go to the section in Botswana

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
caught by the speed gun.
 
saw this inGabrone and thought it was brilliant.
Maranga Lodge camping
the ‘Tropic of Capricorn’ GPS point: S23 30.003 E26 36.764
a huge...ant-eater? we think
.
Nata Lodge camping
heading to Kasane after Nata