What a stunning day!!!!!!!!

Today was the kind of day that confirms to us that the life we’ve chosen to adopt and the sacrifices we’ve made to get here, have been worthwhile.

We left Nata and headed North on the long A3. Riding was easy with good asphalt and only the occasional pothole just to punctuate you’re still in Africa.

Dry thick, dense bush lines the road, allowing you to only see a few metres in, with the only the most hardy and stubborn looking forna surviving.

We spotted the occasional sign saying ‘do not stop!’ Presumably because of wild animals. By 11am we hadn’t seen any wildlife but that was about to change. A huge grey shape appeared suddenly about 100 metres ahead and on the right, flashed across the road and disappeared into the bush on the on other side as quickly as it had appeared. We were so excited. It’s not every day that a wild elephant crosses the road in front of you. Twenty minutes later and we spotted a large herd of elephants off to our left happily grazing. These guys are much bigger than the ele’s we’d seen in Ghana. After watching for 10 minutes we rode on. The smiles on our faces were stuck.

By early afternoon we stopped for petrol, downed a coke and shortly after rode the last 2 Km down to the small town of Kasane, which sits right next to the Chobi river. We had it on good advice that the Chobi Lodge (at GPS: S17 48.543 E25 08.705) offered camping so pulling into the car park of this impressive lodge we’d soon paid our 90 pula (45 Pula each, about £5.40) and began to set up camp amidst the numerous signs, which said ‘ BEWARE CROCODILES’ or ‘BEWARE HIPPOS’. We’d found a space on the edge of the site next to a razor wire fence and only metres from the river. “Do you think that fence is strong enough to stop a croc’ or a hippo”? I asked Lisa, only half joking. Lisa simply smiled and shrugged.

With the tent up and Lisa sorting the last few items I went off to find the cost and times of the game drives. They weren’t going to be cheap. Before long I was introduced to Michelle, the booking manager, whom I have to say has been an absolute star. Suggesting that instead of the drive we should think about taking a boat cruise, which would leave the lodge at 3pm and only return shortly after we enjoyed watching the sun set over the silky waters of the Chobi, which would give us ample opportunity to see the wildlife, which would now be coming to the river side for water. This sounded wonderful but after hearing the cost (which wasn’t high by normal standards) I knew it was going to be a decision for Lisa and I together based on our lack of budget. The cruise itself was 200 Pula, for two (£25) and Park fees which were 140 Pula for two, totalling 340 Pula or £46. I explained what Lisa and I were doing and yes I did mention it was Lisa 42nd birthday tomorrow. I was genuinely ‘gob smacked’ when after only the briefest of pauses; Michelle offered us the boat cruise…compliments of the lodge and halved the price of the park entrance fees. What a fantastic opportunity.

I rushed to tell Lisa. The cruise was Leaving in 5 minutes so with a quick change out of bike kit and grabbing the cameras we were soon back at the small dock, handing over our tickets and stepping onto the small double decked viewing boat. The view is stunning. Silky black water laps gently against the banks; the only ripples from the occasionally passing boat, lazily cruising up or down stream. Thick strong looking vegetation line both banks and off to the left a huge Island of river grass sway back and forth carved out by the meeting of three rivers. Finding our seats upstairs we had a good vantage point as the small boat started up its two outboard motors and slowly backed out into the main waters. Lisa and I were ridiculously excited. It was like a seen from any African movie epic. Before long we eased our up stream and with the engines running quietly pulled over close to the bank as two vast bull elephants made their way to the waters edge. They seemed completely oblivious to us. This was as close as we’ve been and was certainly much nearer that we’d got in Ghana. The size and grace of these animal is beguiling, you can’t help but fall in love with them. After watching a while we continued our upstream journey. A family of baboons were having a domestic, with kids running wild and parents screaming their orders. Branches were being thrown and huge leaps made from tree to neighbouring tree as they chased one another. 50 yards on and the sun was glistening off the jewel like scales of basking crocodile who didn’t seem at all perturbed by the ruckus.

As we continued several more ele’s appeared through the bush. Two more males, boasting huge ivory tusk, which they used to move anything in between them and the water. Giggles broke out from those on board and more than a few gasp, when it was noticed (as if you could miss it) that one of the young bulls was …emmm…seemed…errr…pleased to see us! Every guy on board was thinking the same thing…”Bloody hell mate. Be careful you almost stood on it!” Apparently 5 legs are better than four! Have a look at the picture you already get the idea. (Warning: not for the faint hearted or physically insecure)

Water monitor lizards took their place on the bank and buffalo chewed thick grass stems as they flirted huge black eyelids. Further on down the boat eased up as we passed a fish eagle elegantly poised and seemingly motionless, save for the occasional robotic like twist of his head as something unseen to us caught it’s attention only to be dismissed seconds later. He was truly surveying his kingdom. Loud grunting noises were echoing towards us from further upstream and as we made our way towards the noise impala bounced nervously along the bank and black and white kingfisher dipped lightly into the water. The atmosphere on board was becoming more excited again as the ‘grunting’ came into view. It was an ‘eat-fest’ and the hippos are king! 20+ hippos were making one hell of noise as they vied for the best place to consume the water grass. Black shiny skin bobbed, intermingled only occasionally with the pink of the younger calves. The eating just continued. Their numbers were hard to count as 5 hippos would break the surface, as another 8 would gently sink beneath the water leaving only the expelled vapour from the nostrils to indicate they were once there. Only once did we see one of the larger guys open his cavernous jaws to yawn and then we understood how these amazing animals kill more people than any other in the world!

As the sun set camera shutters clicked with us all trying to capture the orange pink light of the sinking sun. What a stunning experience.

With night now set in and back at the tent, we found our re-lights and set about cooking up dinner…noodles and tuna. As the fuel stove burnt, and we recounted our wonderful day a familiar grunting could be heard from the other side of the wire fence. A baby hippo not quite in full control of it’s huge feet tripped it’s way up the bank and towards us, illuminated by the Orange hue of the small security lights, which lined the fence. We looked on amazed as mum pushed up from the water to keep an eye on Junior. They were now only feet from us, with us out of sight only hidden by the light, which was blinding us from them. We carried on cooking and ate one of the most magical meals of our trip within touching distance of these truly amazing animals. We went to sleep with the hippos splashing and grunting as a lullaby.

By 10am I wished Lisa a happy birthday and had made my way down to see Michelle to thank her for her generosity. Having used all the battery power, I also needed to organise some electricity in order to sort the photos on the laptop.

Opening the small office next to her own for me, I excitedly began flicking through our photos. Michelle popped her head round the door. “You’re not camping tonight”, she said, startling me a little. “Uuhh, yes?” I replied a little unsure of the question, “we want to stay for one more night “I explained. “Yes, but you’re not camping”. Before I could say anything else, Michelle had thrust a key into my hand and grinning, told us that the Lodge was giving us a luxury apartment and that a gourmet safari dinner and breakfast were ‘of course’ included. Yet again on this trip I found myself fumbling for the sentence, which ends…thank you. To top it off - as if it even needed topping off- Michelle had organised a Game drive for us with only one other couple for 3:30pm. I rushed back to see Lisa.

Lisa received the news a little dumbstruck; this was soon replaced by a smile the size of the Grand Canyon. By 3pm we’d packed up our tent and moved ourselves to the wonderful room…WOW! By 3:30pm we’d said hello to Claire and Matt who were joining us on the drive and been introduced to Eugene our driver.

We climbed on board the 4X4 and plonked ourselves on the back seats. With only a flimsy canvas tarp overhead we wondered if we were going to feel a little vulnerable? The answer is yes, but as we would find out later, it only adds to the experience and thrill. Driving the short 2km to the park entrance, we were soon on a bumpy sand track and heading down to the water. Out of the water, vast breathing ’boulders’ were basking in the sun: It was naptime for the hippos. Heavy heads resting on the ground and plumes of dust blown into the air with each deep exhalation of breath.

A little further on and we’d spotted sharp inquisitive eyes watching from the bushes. Two Kudos nervously made their way out from the bush. Their large antenna like ears flicking and twitching, picking up any sense of danger. With heads held high and with a regal air they slowly made their way across the track and disappeared into the scrub on our right. Lisa and I were doing our usual ‘grinning thing’.

A camera shy and wonky-necked giraffe to our left was playing hide and seek. He was winning.

The track opened up with large plains stretching as far as we could see. Eugene stopped suddenly, dropped the 4X4 into 1st gear and eased around the large bull elephant in the track. We’d been so busy looking at the plains we’d missed him. The instant thrill of being this close sent shivers down my back. The bull trumpeted, stamped the ground and shook his vast head side to side. This was his way of saying, “ I’ll tolerate you, but that’s close enough”. The message was effective! This boy wasn’t old with fairly short tusks and only a few battle scars visible on his thick cement grey skin. We felt privileged being allowed to be this close. If he chose, this bull could overturn us in an instant. What an honour. Eugene clearly knew exactly what he was doing and what the limits were. After 5 minutes of marvelling at this colossus we said good-bye and thanked him for his tolerance.

We rounded the next corner and startled a large herd of Impala, which nervously all moved 1 metre in the same direction and stopped dead to stare at us. Realising we weren’t a threat, dinner was resumed. In the distance to our right a mature giraffe was galloping across the plain, trying to catch his herd. A slight limp on his right hind leg indicating why he was behind.

The next 30 minutes of our trip were to be some of the most magical to date…

Cresting a small rise and then dropping down around an ancient tree with roots exposed, the four of us collectively gasped…Protected by the roots and looking quite at home a fully grown Lioness was keeping an eye open while her two cubs tucked into a recently killed Kudu. Mum was watching us carefully as the two cubs gorged on the bloody carcass oblivious to us. The sound of bones braking in their already powerful jaws was punctuated with deep grunting as they tried to breath and eat simultaneously. The frequent throbbing purring giving away their ecstasy.

We were no more than 15 feet away and were feeling a heady mixture of sheer excitement and respectful fear. This was completely unexpected. We hoped desperately to see Lions but hadn’t dared dream that we’d get this close. Much like the elephant it was understood that we were being tolerated. With cubs to worry about we hoped her patience would last.

The cubs were gorged and heavy with food as one waddled down to the water and gently lapped. With his thirst quenched he returned to his sister to play. She didn’t want to, she was still eating. A little dejected he turned his attention to us, stepped over mum and started plodding towards us on his oversized paws. Feeling confident his let out his best roar…it was more of a loud meow. That’s enough thought mum. In the blink of an eye she was up and turned towards us. The four of us in the jeep instantly pushed back in our seats, suddenly feeling very unsafe. The speed at which she’d moved was incredible, her previous soft, lulling composure masking her underlying power and agility. ‘Junior’ knew he was in trouble as the lioness took him by the scruff of his neck in her jaws and carried him up to the crest of the small hill as his body hung limp and his huge paws dragged on the ground. The youngest lioness, unhappy that brother had ruined things, quickly joined them. And there they lay for the next 10 minutes until we were forced to leave them, needing to get back before that park gates closed.

Back across the veldt, Eugene stopped close by the water allowing us to enjoy the Orange light of the setting Sun as it sank behind the low hills, silhouetting kissing giraffes as it slowly disappeared. We were on such a huge high. Driving on we passed another young bull elephant contesting a piece of land with a mature giraffe. The giraffe wasn’t impressed.

As almost all light had gone Eugene pulled over one last time as he spotted to you male Lions lying around 10 metres of to our left, their manes still looking furry but impressive none the less. With time running out we said good-bye and raced to the gate.

What an incredible experience.

The remainder of the evening was spent with Clair and Matt as we enjoyed the sumptuous safari feast laid out by the lodge all enjoyed outside with each table lit by flickering candle light and the distant glow of the three large BBQ’s.

Back in the room Lisa and I just looked at one another in disbelief at the day we experienced. Showered down and enjoying the absolutely luxury of the apartment we talked until 1am recounting our encounter with the wildlife and trying to relive are magical time with the lions.

It’s now 2:20 am. Lisa is fast asleep but I couldn’t wait to write this up. Laptops now going off…night, night.