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11-01-2006: Brazil

Ummm, as you’d imagine we didn’t have the earliest of starts. And so by the time we sorted out our headaches and bike kit, in that order and ridden into town it was mid-day and hot even by Paraguayan standards.

The line for the border stretched into the distance, with baggage and wide panniers there was no way we could filter through the lanes. With over-head Sun we weren’t even catching any shade from the trees that lined the main avenue down to the border. An hour in and we were both beginning to suffer. We were edging slowly forward but the heat and humidity were becoming over-whelming. Lisa was finding it tougher. With her heart medication slowing her heart rate to control her arythmia she wasn’t able to disperse the heat and cool down as effectively. Several times she simply had to sit on the curb, finding shade sat close to one of the huge coashes whilst I moved both bikes.

2 ½ hours later we’d lost litres of fluid but had finaly got to within spitting distance of the border. And so with our sweat soaked helmets perched on the wing-mirrors we made ready for the paperwork formalities. Ahhh, not just yet!!! The local TV news station had somehow caught wind of the two strange over-dressed bikers heading for the boder and just before customs office, had pounced. Delighted as we were we could barely mumble a few words yet alone give a interview in Spanish and come away with sounding even remotely elequant. We did our best but god knows what we looked or sounded like.

With our passports sporting their shiny new 3 months Visa, this time we easily got our vehicle imort papers stamped and headed esily out of Foz Do Iguacu to pick up the tarred 277 that would take us East.

Without the soaking of our last 277 ride we arrived back in Guarapuava far more refreshed than our first visit had seen us.

12-01-2006

With a fast and easy ride East we’d arrived in Curitiba by rush-hour, typical. Lisa’s rear brakes have been out of bounds for the last few weeks, the problem we thought we sorted in Sao Paulo has returned. Her brakes are sticking heavily and she already back to metal on metal. We needed to visit the Curitiba BMW dealer ‘Star News’

What a bunch of great guys. With the problem easily explained, two strong good coffees were thrust into our hands and Lisa’s bike wheeld away to the service department. Having bulked at the cost of rear brake pads at £80 a set we’d opted for the cheaper non-gen pads at £15. By the time we’d drank our first coffe and walked through to the F650 The old pads were off, the problem being inspected and the shiny new fishcer pads were going on. We ended up spending another hour talking with Roberto the service manager. With the new pads fitted it was time to pay u and look big. Our offer of ‘cold hard cash’ was dismissed. “no this is our contribution” Roberto stated happily. “It’s nothing”. We thank him and Star News, surprised at this unexpeceted generosity.

We ended up leaving with Roberto to find a hotel, ditched our kit had a quick wash and enjoyed a great evening with him and his brother at a local bar. His brother works for ‘Top Mag’ a glossy upmarket, what’s happening publication. We’ve arranged an interview for tomorrow.

What a strange twist to what we thought was going to be an unaventfull day.

13-01-2006
Roberto and his brother pitched up at 9:00 both looking the worse for wear. They’d eventually left the bar at 3:30am

Following Robertos car through town, by 9:30am we’d met the editor parked up the bikes and and were watching as one of their resident photographers snapped his camera from every angle, photographing both bikes every surface.

I’d remembered to bring the portable hard drive and so with an hour interview given we rounded thing s off by offering across 20 or so images from Africa and a dozen or so from our travels in Brazil.

We left around mid-day, back to the hotel to get some diary and website work done.

Roberto and his brother were still looking very, very green when we left!!

14-01-2006

A long day!

With patchy cloud and occasional Sun we’ve ridden 540 miles today and arrived back in Port Alegre at Richards and tania’s around 7:00pm
The warm hugs and greetings were exactly wha the doctor ordered. It’s wonderful to be back but a little scary to realise that over 6 months has flown by since we were here last.

15 to 17-01-2006
A great few days.

We were both more physically tired than we’d realised and have thoroughly enjoyed the last few days.
Sunday was a treat. We’d been invited with Tania and Richard to spend the days at her families new home, Asado was the order of the day, well that and lazing about in the new finished swimming pool. Easy going company, great people and so much food. Have alookat some of the photos.

Monday and Tuesday were crappy, cold and very wet, with Richard and tanias wonderful company we weren’t ready to tear ourselves away just yet. It was also a chance to get some diary and website done. We’re a bit behind on the web site.

18-01-2006
We did our best to thank Tania and Richard again for the friendship and hospitality but the most elequant of words always seems to fall short of how indebted we feel. The kindness and friendship we enjoy on our journey is so much of what makes it so incredible. It’s always the people in life you remember more often than it is the places. Thanks guys.

We struck out South-West across Rio Grande Do Sul with our sad farewells behind us. With 300 miles covered we enjoyed and strange but easy day of riding, more than a little delighted that my neck had not given me any problems, well none than a few pain-killers didn’t easily sort. It still hadn’t really sunk in, today was going to be our last day in Brazil, tomorrow we’d be leaving for Urugauy en-route to Argentina. Brazil has left a mark on both of us, mental and physical. We’ll be sad to leave the country and the good friends we’ve made.

By early evening we made our new home the ‘Verde Hotel’ (find it GPS: S30 53.547 W55 32.073) in the small town of Santana Do Livramento and had thrown our bags into the room. Being so close to the border camping didn’t seem like a safe idea.

 
 
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a great day spent with Tania's family