2ridetheworld.com : diary

13-08-2005 :Brazil

By 9:30am we were back at Autokraft, but his time socially joining a dozen or so other riders for their regular Saturday breakfast. We ended up spending about 5 hours there just talking and making friends. The day closed off at a small café, where we spent the evening with Renalto and his wife Heloise. Two caprinha’s and a local dish of mash, oil and garlic shrimp for dinner. Perfect.
14-08-2005
We’re now just killing time until Monday when we can pick up our parcel. Two hours down near Ipanema beach and the rest of the day working on the website.
15-08-2005
With an early start 7:00am we headed up into one of Rio’s dodgier areas, well it looked and felt like one anyway. We had an appointment with FedEx who’d confirmed on Friday that our package from South Africa had finally been released by Brazillian customs and would be ready Monday. We weren’t going to waste any time! The FedEx office was found easily enough and we were soon signing the pile of receipt paperwork required for release. With the box at last in our hands we excitedly tore it open. Inside, the Touratech seat, TT red side panels, F650GS chain guide, BMW black visor and our essential Autocom leads. Talk about relieved. It did take me 30 minutes to work out how to get the new single sport seat to fix, but hey, I don’t read German. With the old R1100GS seat strapped onto the bike and the new Touratech seat firmly in place it was time to test it out. We headed back to Autokraft, who’d kindly offered to store the old seat for me. Call me sentimental but after 41 countries together I couldn’t bin it. And maybe someone can mend it and put it to use. I’d like to think so anyway. We’d met Heiner yesterday at the breakfast, a native German now living in Brazil with a host of intrepid Brazilian motorcycle journeys under his belt. Heiner was keen to travel Africa’s East and Southern coasts and we’d arranged to meet up and swap ideas and advice. By mid afternoon we‘d cruised up the steep mountain track Heiner calls his driveway and were deep in excited conversation, swapping ideas, photos, map information and must-see places. Heiner’s home in the hills is one of the most breathtaking we’ve ever visited. A wonderfully modern mixture of white stone work and glass perched high over the city. The shimmering blue waters of the kidney-shaped swimming pool out front, lead our eyes effortlessly out to Rio as the daylight dwindled and the ciites lights began to sparkle. The distant mountains faded into dusky blues and bowed graciously out of view. Heiner thank you for a wonderful evening. Stay safe, enjoy Africa and keep your rubber on the road. See you soon.
16-08-2005
We’d packed up last night and we’re eager to get the bikes loaded. Brazil and the road were calling; we’d been in Rio too long. With Lisa sorting out the last few bits of packing, I rode over to Autokraft to try and strike a deal with their head mechanic who offered the 22mm F650GS bolt I’d been unable to source via BMW. After 20 minutes of haggling I was getting ‘racked off’. The guys name I forget, but the price he was asking was crazy even by Brazillian standards. What actually got to me was the outright lie he was sticking to. He ran a small repair shop from his home and had brought in a ‘very used’ bolt from a ‘broken’ 650, but was adamant that the price was 35 Reals because it was a new bolt. The fact that the bolt had deep spanner marks on the head and was covered in the grey lubricating grease BMW use clearly showed it had just come off a knackered bike. Paying an ‘over the top’ price is one thing, but hey we needed the part, but being looked in the eye and being taken for a complete idiot was just pissing me off. I ended up paying him 30 Reals and walking away. With our thanks given to all at Autokraft, Renalto in particular, I made my way back to Nivaldo’s. The day was aleady getting hotter and I was desperate to hit the road. With a late start we knew we weren’t going too far and by the time we’d found and crossed Rio’s huge Niteroi bridge, for the second time, we’d agreed to head out to Buzio on the coast. Once a sleepy little fishing village until ‘discovered’ by Bridget Bardot in the 60’s, since when it’s been a favourite break of wealthy Brazillians ‘escaping’ the citiy. The BR-101, which led us out, was noticibly less manic East of Rio and we enjoyed some great twists and bends as we made our way easily to the coast. We’d thought of taking the smaller coastal road but as time was short decided to just get a move on and reach Buzio in daylight. We found one campsite 12km from Buzio’s centre at GPS: S22 43.774 W41 58.686. As the only guests and with warm showers and an outside gas stove it was perfect. 15 Reals per person per night was a little high but then again this is Buzio.
17-08-2005
Spent the day getting the Autocoms working with the new leads. When we eventually got it sorted we realised how much we’d missed being able to communicate whilst we travel. With a few other odd bike jobs completed and Lisa having had a snooze in the hammock (!) we rode into Buzio for a beer and small pizza.
18-08-2005
We’d left Buzio at a good time but our attempt to find the gravel tracks North west of the main road have come to nothing and it had taken us longer than we thought to get the miles under our belt. The inland mountain roads were awesome but they were taking their toll on our time. By nightfall we were battling with over-laiden trucks and playing our usual game of night time dodgems. By 9:00pm we were on the outskirts of Barbacena and concentration was waining. Our battle of road position with the mad night driving was taking its toll. A coffe and ass break was needed. We figured we had anther 50-60km to Tiradentes. The small roadside café looked welcoming and the coffe strong. Refreshed from our short break and now with an audience, tired body’s straddled the bikes and as Lisa pulled away, her precarious footing gave way and the bike went over, spitting her sideways. She was not happy. With the bike kicked and eventually picked up she roared out of the car park still angry at the rare drop. A few scratches on Alfs steel tankprotectors and damged pride the only real victims. We rode into Tiradentes centre at 10:10pm and with no sign of camping started looking for a cheap Pousada. That wasn’t going to happen. Tonight was the start of a two week gastronomical festival, everywhere was booked solid. By 11:00pm we’d finally found an empty room and bargained the owner down from 200 Reals to 100 Reals!! Much more than we could afford but with choices limited it would have to do. On the bright side it’s our 10th Wedding anniversary tomorrow and waking up in a clean bed will be a nice start to the day.
19-08-2005
Waking up in a soft white-sheeted bed was a great start to our 10th wedding anniversary. Last night we had celebrated with a dish of local food and chopp (draft lager of varying qualities…most very good!) and were late to bed so our morning didn’t start that eary! As we packed the last few bags onto the bikes in front of the Pousada, a young man (Luiz) was striding purposely towards us. “You’ve come a long way then”? …..was the opening gambit and 15 minutes later we were chatting like old friends. Luiz was the proud owner of a brand new R1150GS Adventure and was keen we meet his father. Remember….. flexibility is the key to a great adventure…! We’d agreed to spend 20 minutes talking with Luiz’s family before we headed North. By late afternoon we’d been made to feel at home and been offered a place to stay. The offer of easy and welcoming company and a ride around the maze of tracks that lace Tiradentes was too good to pass up. By 3:30pm Lisa was deep into her maps and I’d unburdened the 1100 of tank bag, roll bag and heavy panniers. It had been a while since I’d just been able to play and enjoy the lighter side of the big GS. Having Luiz as a guide, pointing out the unseen dangers of the various tracks we were ridng was a luxury I was relishing. Fast long gravel curves saw the GS’s back end sliding out playfully and the countless small jumps just added to the adrenalin ride. We spent two hours just blatting around pushing ourselves and the bikes until our nerve gave out. This for me is what riding is about…a bike, a tank of gas and a friend. The stupidly large grin I was wearing at the beginning of our ride was now fixed in place. Bikes, speed, dust and dirt…is there anything better?
20-17-08-2005
We enjoyed the great company of the Pinheiro family and even managed to get our rally suits washed. After Lisa’s little spill two nights ago she was also in need of a new clutch lever. We’ll leave in the moring and head for Diamantina. Luiz has asked to ride with us, his company will be welcome.
21-08-2005
We left Tiradentes at 10:00am and said farewell to the Pinheiro family who treated us so well. It was great to leave with Luiz riding in front and we weren’t looking forward to saying goodbye. An hour later and the time to say adios had come. We’ve promised to stay in touch. Heading North we were quickly submersed in the deep dark foliage of the Brazilian forest cover, which drops down onto the road from both sides. The road was addictive. No matter how many long sweeping, fast bends you ride here, you just can’t get enough. After the flat coast line, the mountain bends and scenery were such a change. With little or no traffic we could ride and enjoy. We wanted to reach Diamantina and had hoped to stay East of Belo Horizonte, hah, that didn’t happen. By late afternoon we’d not been able to find a way off the main Eastern highway into the city and by 5:00pm knew that unless we changed our plans we were going to be riding at night again. That just sounded like a really bad idea. Having done this a few times, there’s only so far you can push your luck. Two nights ago walking around Tiradentes town centre we’d chatted to Patty and Mac an American couple living in Brazil who kindly offered to put us up if we were ever in the area. We thanked them for their offer but had explained that we’d no plans to pass through. That had now changed…and so after scrabbling to find the number we’d scribbled down two nights ago we now had to find a phone and see if the offer was still open. We needed rescuing. With a phone call made on a borrowed phone card we met up with Mac 30 minutes later and followed him back to his home. Patty was at the door grinning. After a brief impromptu meeting we were truly grateful for their hospitality. After our apologetic hello’s (we were so embarrassed about the short notice we’d given them) we ended up talking until 1:00am in the morning.


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