2ridetheworld.com : diary

01-09-2005 :Brazil

The short trip up the coast to Praia de Forte and setting up camp took longer than we thought. The trip was no problem….the campsite was. After spending time in the tourist information centre …..that didn’t really have any information on the campsite……we went off to try to find it. Note: we have found that here in Brazil they say that they are ‘camping friendly’…….we, at the moment, find otherwise. They’d much rather you stay in Hotels or Pousada’s and camping is ‘looked down upon’ in most up-market tourist areas. The campsites that are mentioned don’t seem to exist or if they do they are incredilbly hard to locate as there are no signs for them and everyone gives you different directions to them!! With no signs at all to the site we eventually located it……to find that it was all locked up. Eventually someone did come to the gate and after 30 mins of Portuguese and sign language we understood that the campsite was currently closed as the owner had rented it out to all the road workers who are improving the cobblestone road into the town. So! Another trip back into tourist info only to find out that Pousadas in this area are around 100-200 R$ pp!! Aaggghhh. Now Simon was getting frustrated. Help, however, was in the way of a ‘guide’ who took us to this great Pousada run by John Michelle….
02-09-2005
Today was for worki ng on the bikes. However, as usual a simple job turns into an all day one! We had hoped to complete a full oil change on both bikes today. We only managed to complete Simon’s. We are missing some of our tools and have realised that we haven’t seen them in quite a while…..someone with light fingers somewhere……and so we are now missing some of the socket heads we need for a main service. After having to hunt around the local towns for some replacement tools… (not an easy job…nobody has much)….. Simon’s bike was eventually completed…..but the day had disappeared on us. The evening turned what had been a frustrating day into a good day. We enjoyed a meal cooked by John Michelle’s wife and Simon became the barman making great Caiprinhas for us and the other guests that had arrived today.
03-09-2005
This morning we started work on my (Lisa’s) bike. All was going well until we came to undo the main engine oil drain plug. ……it had been ‘Alf’d’ and try as we might we couldn’t get it undone. So, Simon has once again had to go into the main supermarket in order to find another spanner to help. As mentioned before the missing socket heads are turning out to be a real pain. It’s really, really hot and humid and the sweat has been dripping off us both as we work in our ‘make-do’ workshop by the pool!! OK – so now we have a borrowed 24” tool that we have to take back before the end of the working day as no one had one to sell. This still isn’t working…….so now we wait as a passing motorcyclist is off to try to find a longer leverage for us!! We are both desperate to relax and enjoy the beach……and had hoped that we could go to another campsite that we’ve heard exists …but on his trip out for tools, Simon found the track was an almost impassable deep sand steep downhill track that has a campsite at the end of it that is……guess what…….closed, which seems to be the norm for sites in Brazil!!! At the moment it’s costing us a fortune to travel through Brazil as staying in Pousadas is more than we would pay out for camping and of course it’s impossible to cook our own food so we eat out…not expensive but still more that if we cooked for ourselves. Surprisingly fuel quality is quite poor and is therefore also costing us more as we are going through it a lot more rapidly that ususal.
04-09-2005
Chilled out at Jean Michelles
05-09-2005
Left Praia de Forche and arrived in Maceio at night. We spent two hours trying to find camping…nada. Camping was all closed. We ended up spending dosh at the holiday Express. As we arrived the heavens opened and it rained massively. Instant TV dinner but we had secure parking
06-09-2005
Porto de Galinhas and found camping. Very humid
07-09-2005
Beach day. Tropical storms but very hot.
08-09-2005
Beach very hot.
09-09-2005
Into Recife for tyres. Found none. Upon our return from our failed tyre hunt we found we have new neighbours, a group of Belgique guys who all seem pretty cool.
10-09-2005
Lisa writes: Did BBQ and got wasted on Capirinhas. After going to the supermarket and buying what seemed like most of the food there we made our way back to the campsite and I started prepping the food whilst the ‘boys’ did whatever it was they were doing! ……I was enjoying myself as it had been a little while since I had had the chance to do some proper food prep with a glass of capirinha in my hand! I remember Simon stated to cook the food but unfortunately I don’t remember much more………they tell me we went to the beach ……..I think I’d had too many capirinhas!
11-09-2005
Spent day recovering. Today I didn’t teally feel like I could do very much…not so much a hangover but a very tired and dizzy day! So they day was spent with us both lying in the shade under an umberella on the beach……hard work when you feel like we did!
12-09-2005
This morning I felt much better and so we started to sort and pack ready for tomorrow’s departure. Simon worked on computer and we got packed up.
13-09-2005
Left porto de galinhas. Arrived in Praia de Pipa and it took us for bloody ages to find camping. Eveyone said there was none. Found it in the dark. Can’t remember the name but if you need to camp you can find it at GPS: S6 13.793 W35 03.013. It’s right in the middle of town and cost us 15 Reals per night.
14-09-2005
Day on beach and chilling out.
15-09-2005
We were going to have to start our walk along the cost line early if we were going tomake it 3 bays up. With a fast tide coming in on one side and sheer cliffs to the other we had little option other than to try and beat the incoming sea. Why all the effort? Marcus had mentioned that several schools of dolphinshad been seen and were probably still in the area. The chance of swimming with wild dophins was to good to miss. 30 minutes in and we’d scrabbled over lava rocks, crawled under Cliffside scrub and were walking the outskirts of the large crescent bay. The three shiny blue-silver fins effortlessly breaking the waters surface in front of us was exactly what we’d hoped to see and minutes later and with our gear stashed we’d waded in as quietly as possible until we were neck deep and waited……and waited……..suddenly they were around us only about 20 feet away…three of them. Luckily after waiting another couple of hours Iisa was lucky enough to have them jumping and playing around her with the fish they’d just caught earlier. Tese beautiful animal were at times only feet from. This truly one of those once in a lifetime experiences and one that will stay with us for a very long time. Magical! We spent the rest of the day just relaxing at Marcus’s bar. Lisa chatted and sun bathed, whilst I worked on the computer. Evening meal was lobster for 24 reals. Thanks to the Rebeca’s and Steve fort the company. And Rebeca we promise not to tell anyone that your boyfriend calls you…flossboss!
16-09-2005
By 7’ish pm and again in the dark we’d arrived in Mossoró from Praia de Pipa. The day had been much longer than we’d anticipated. Even with the GPS we’d somehow managed to loose the main ‘304’ we’d planned to ride from Natal. The back roades we’d taken were leading us North towards Macau a town famous for its salt production. Huge fences collect the salt, visible as you ride in. OK, a quick change of plan, we’ll look for camping or a secure pousada here. By now it was 4:30pm and we’d not consumed enough water. The young boy on his moped was eager to play tour guide and so with help from a new friend we zipped through the maze of Macau’s back streets and found the coast and visited 5 would-be lodgings. None had parking of any kind. There was no way we were going to leave the bikes on the street. We were already getting plenty of attention, so far all good but it only takes ones idiot to have a go at the bikes in the hope to make a few Reals and we’ve got problems It just isn’t worth the risk. We were left with little choice but to get back on the road and head West in the hope of finding somewhere to stay
17-09-2005
Left Mossoró late 12pm after watching tv last night till the wee hours. We needed coffee and water and so 20 minutes after setting off we were stoping at the truck café on the outskirts of the city. The day was already swelteringly hot. The soft rumble coming off the road sounded familiar…an Africa Twin. Walter had arrived. He was as excited to see us as we were him. We’d met no other over-landers in 4X4’s or bikes. To see another laiden bike complete with oversized aluminium boxes was great. We ended up comparing notes on travel in South America and bike stories for an hour before deciding to ride on together to Fortaleza. By 4pm we’d bargained two rooms at a local hotel by Praia de Futuro, down to 50 Reals for a room and by 4:20pm it was time to cool down. The Large crashing waves were just to inviting to miss. Lisa had made the right choice not to come in the current and power of the sea here was intimidating. I’d battled twice to get back to shore, happy and relieved to feel sand under my feet as was crushed by another rolling bank of white water. Enjoyed a great meal in the evening. Three of us ate 2 courses plus 3 beers, water and coffee for 24 Reals.



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