Mmm, well that didn’t go quite to plan.

With a good nights rest we loaded the bikes quickly and were on the road by 9:00am, heading for the border and Costa Rica. We’d guessed it would take 30 minutes to exit Panama and maybe as long as an hour to get into Costa Rica. After 2 ½ hours on the Costa Rican side we were absurdly hot and going in circles.

We’d not read anywhere (i.e. from other travelers) about the entry process and now I’m guessing it’s because the process is so convoluted that after the event no-one can remember exactly what they did.

Here’s my guess; First off immigration at the second window on the right. There are 4 windows in a long low green wooden office structure. This was pretty straight forward; it was the customs that had us stumped. We had the Carnet and had confirmed with an official that it could be used here and so we began.

Problems aside here’s what I think we did: Get a copy of your passport photo ID page and a copy of the new entry stamp you’ve just picked up. You’ll also need a copy of your driving license and your vehicle ownership paperwork, confirming chassis number, motor number and all the usual other stuff. You’ll also need a copy of your next ‘Carnet’ page (God knows why as it’s the copy they’ll keep anyway)?

Don’t go into the main Aduana office just yet! Standing at the immigration window look left and you’ll see a small office window- not signs-, this is your next port of call. This is some kind of ‘pre’ customs…something??? They’ll give you a white A4 sheet to complete, covering pretty much all the info on your carnet and some other bits. You’ll also be given a small A5 questionnaire with the normal entry questions. With those complete go to the small office signed ‘INNS’ this is the security office. Pass them your documents, they’ll need number plate, chassis number etc and you’ll need to pay an ‘entry fee’, we paid US$26 for the two bikes (US$13 per bike). They’ll issue you with a bit of paper which they will type out which you’ll now take back to the small ‘pre-Aduana’ window, where they’ll complete any other necessary documents their side. If you have a carnet they’ll also stamp and complete it here, but watch them do it, the two staff that did ours didn’t even know which sections they had to complete or for that matter which sections to retain for themselves. With that done you’ll need to take your stamped carnet into the main Aduana offices, through two large doors a few windows down from where you completed the ‘pre-aduanna’ stuff. Don’t go to the main counter. You’ll see a small desk to the right of the main counter. They need the A5 and the A4 info sheets you filled in earlier and that have now been stamped. More than likely they’ll want to inspect your bike/car, well, they did with ours anyway.

You’ll then be issued with another small slip of paper which you’ll hand to the exit guards before you can leave the zone…phew???

Paperwork done we could at last get on the road and begin to cool down as the moving air found its way through our vented jackets. Already the landscape was changing, becoming greener and lusher. This country just seems to drip with every imaginable type of green foliage. Cloud topped mountains covered in forestation lay off to our left our right, but the potholed road needed our attention.

We’d made good progress and so far the condition of the road had been much better than we’d expected, we’d heard bad things. Pulling over into a small café, Lisa’s bike lurched and stalled. “You alright”, I asked, puzzled. “No something funny just happened to my clutch” Lisa replied with a pained expression. Sure enough the shiny new clutch cable installed a few short days back in Bogota had snapped, to make matters worse we didn’t have a spare. Well’ we figured ‘it’s new’ it’ll last until North America or Mexico. Stationary, the heat was building up fast. The cable had completely snapped right down at the gear change mechanism end. With the seat and left hand fuel tank off we could now get better access.

I’d already asked around and been told that it couldn’t be repaired here. The map showed a small town some 20 KM up the road, I’d give that a go. With my bike unloaded I’d make better time. I must confess to feeling a little awkward at leaving Lisa in a small café by the road side only hours after arriving in a new country.

Alex was behind the counter of the small freshly painted shop which proudly displayed it ‘YAMAHA’ banner. Within a few minutes I’d explained my problem and we were looking for a solution. None of the Yami cables were going to fit, apart from differing attachments at both ends they were either to long or two short.

We ended up cutting one of them, pulling out the cable, inserting that into the old plastic sheath of Lisa’s and screwing a head onto the now bare end. It was a bit of a bodge but better than nothing. Besides for 2,500 Colones (£2.50) I wasn’t going to grumble.

Back with Lisa we fiddled around for about 40 minutes before finally managing to get the cable to the right length and attaching both ends. With Lisa’s bike back together and back on the road we were going to have to revise our plan, there was no way we were going to reach the small town we had planned to stay in just north of San Jose by nightfall.

Right now we’ve pulled into a small but clean hotel on the outskirts of ‘San Isidro de el General’.

OK, now it’s ‘Cerveza’ time.

With that job done and the bikes laded we hit the road. We’d hoped to avoid the hassles of a major city like San Jose, but after Lisa’s snapped clutch cable we’re going to have to go in and try to find BMW and pick up a genuine replacement. We don’t know how long the repaired cable from yesterday will last.

We’d been warned about the ‘treacherous’ pot-holed road into San Jose and listened and read about the ‘road of death’ over the mountains. What a load of old ‘bollocks’. Yes the road was winding and yes it did have some pretty patchy asphalt in place but it certainly wasn’t living up to the hype. No mad-dog bus drivers running anyone of the road, no terrifying cliff edges to skirt and even the driving was pretty good.

We’d managed to visit the BMW Costa Rica web site this morning and pick up the GPS co-ordinate for the garage and so by 1:30pm we’d parked up outside the flashy glass walled showroom.

Norval was closing up the back. Everything else looked closed. Norval surprised me with a perfect “hi how ya doin’ can I help”. With our problem explained to a sympathetic ear, Norval was soon opening the showroom back up and had even used his cell to call Martin the parts Department manager and some 20 minutes later we were the owners of a new cable.

By the time we’d said our thanks and were ready for the off it was 3:20pm, there wasn’t much point in making any grand plans to leave, besides we’re both feeling pretty tired. And so with advice taken from Norvel we’re at a small hotel 10 minutes away from BMW. Here’s the GPS for the hotel GPS: N9 55.797 W84 06.192

Here’s the GPS for BMW Costa Rica GPS: N9 56.288 W84 07.307