2ridetheworld.com : diary

25-11-2003 : Morocco	Page 1.- 2.- 3.- 4.- 5.
Our bodies are feeling the result of yesterdays riding, sand is very physical to ride in and with countless falls we are both feeling tender, although somehow feeling a little battered just adds to the grin factor?By late morning we were back in the sand trying hard to remember everything from yesterday and feeling a little vulnerable without Charly around. An hour in and things were coming good. As or confidence grew we ventured deeper into the real dunes and tackled soft higher sand. The learning curve is steep and mistakes are rewarded by a lot of digging and even more lifting of heavy bikes.
26-11--2003
We set off quite early in order to have a bash round the back of the dunes practicing in deep sandy ruts. This is particularly difficult as you get into one groove and you are thrown about by the deep sand and then have to, or are forced to cross into another deep rut. Crossing between deep sandy ruts is not a nice experience – the bike is thrown about and the back end comes around to meet the front (!) whilst the handlebars are twisting and vibrating in all directions. The aim is to stay with it and move with the bike rather that fight it and blat the throttle at the appropriate times– easier said than done – but you do manage it and riding does become much easier. The day was becoming hotter and by 2pm we had both decided we had had enough and started to head out of the dunes. However, Simons bike decided it didn't’t want to play anymore and began to have the same problems as is it did for a short while yesterday – it was in gear but there was no movement forward. This time, however, after leaving it for a little while it didn't’t resolve itself. Simon did the most practical checks he could whilst being stuck in deep sand in the heat of the day but nothing was obvious. The R1100 GS was now stuck in a deep soft rut round the back of Erg Chebbi, there was no way we could push it out! The only option was for one of us to ride back on the F650 and get a truck and leave the other with the bike. I decided that it was more practical to leave me and for Simon to return and organise a pickup and bring whatever tools he may need. Luckily there was shade nearby and my cotton neckerchief quickly became a head scarf. With my water pack full of water (even if we go out for a short ride) – I had enough remaining water to sit it out for the rest of the afternoon. A few dogs came to inspect me but decided that I was too boring and left. It was totally quiet – and very strange to be what felt like in the middle of nowhere with no one around. Until a man from the nearest Auberge appeared in his 4X4 in order to check that everything was OK. He had seen two bikes enter the dunes but only one come out ………(observant of him!). I explained the problem and that Simon had gone for a truck and he said if any further help was needed to come to his Auberge and pointed to where it was. Just over 1 hour later Simon returned in Ksar Sania’s 4X4 with Francoise driving, Aziz and Ahmed as the ‘haulers’ -It was going to be a very tight squeeze in order to shove the bike into the back so Simon took off the tank, dropped the handlebars, and took of the screen and we all manhandled it up the steep ramp made by using sand ladders and into the back of the vehicle having to turn it slightly onto its side in the process. It’s at times like this that you realise just how huge and heaving the R1100GS is! The ride back was further than I thought, as we had traveled further than we’d realised. Simon’s tank was in the back and getting scratched to pieces from rubbing up against metal in the van but this was a small problem compared to the possibilities of what’s wrong with the bike! Back at the Auberge Simon started to dismantle the bike, figuring it was the clutch. With as much done for today as possible (with the light gone) Simon was packing away as a familiar hum rang through the site. Rob riding his Africa twin had arrived. As it turned out Rob is from the UK and an engineer. If Simon needs help Rob has kindly offered a hand. It’s at times like this that you realise that there really is a common bond enjoyed by ‘motorcyclist’.
27-11--2003
The day started early and both Rob and Simon were up to their armpits in motorbike nuts and bolts and soon had the bike stripped all the way down to the clutch plate. Simon didn't’t think he was going to see that again for a little while – especially after replacing it when we were in Austria. We did ring Touratech for advice in order to see if others had had problems after replacing their old plates with the ceramic plate – but we appear to have caught them at a bad time as they are collating a new catalogue and nobody rang back despite saying we were in the desert (!)– It’s a good job we weren't’t relying on them! Anyway we continued and Rob checked everything possible and then started a rebuild. Simon then - right at the end of daylight here – started up the bike and, hey presto the clutch engaged and the bike moved forward……….everyone was happy until he tried it again and………nothing, no forward movement at all. We were back to square one. Simon was, for a short while, quite down about it but we did both expect there to be problems with the bikes at some point on the trip so we are pleased that we are not in the middle of the Mauritanian crossing or in the middle of Chad somewhere! Both Rob and Simon were so tired as the day had been long and very hot, that after a few beers and eating they departed at 8:30 pm to their beds!
28-11-2003
OK so today is another day and lets hope that things go well. Rob is staying to help – what a great guy! After breakfast we were all out looking at the bike…Simon and Rob started once again to strip it down. The first plan of the day was to remove the additional washers supplied and installed in conjunction with the ceramic clutch plate from Touratech, just in case there was any slippage there – but upon checking them all Simon and Rob found that at one point the back wheel was moving when in gear and there was no movement whatsoever from the clutch. The problem is therefore not with the clutch but lower down in the shaft somewhere. Now the problem is removing the shaft drive and final drive ……and a size 12 Allen key is required, we don’t have one. We have all the staff trying to find the right size tools (as this is more of a workshop now than an Auberge) and going to other hotels and their Uncles workshops etc! Finally after a drive to Rissani a size 12 Allen key and 30mm socket were located – very kindly lent by a local bike mechanic. Racing back to the Auberge Rob and Simon continued work and even when the light began to fade the Moroccans from the Auberge came outside to set up lights and then hold them for us.
29-11-2003
With the final drive checked and no problems found it can only leave the drive shaft. Two hours later and with Rob and I looking up the ass end of the bike, we finally see the problem. The drive shaft is not a single piece of metal but two pieces bonded together by a resin glue and secured by rubber. Somehow the glue bond has broken allowing the lower end of the drive to turn, which via friction has heated up the rubber and so completely lost any bond to the front shaft section. Several phone calls later and the only place we can find a new shaft is Motorworks in the UK. BMW can get one in but it will be 10 days from Germany to the UK (god knows why) and then another 4-10 days to get to us here in Merzouga. We have thought about welding the two shaft sections together but that will put a lot of pressure on other components as the torque from the engine is transferred down the shaft, where as before the glue and rubber were acting as a damper, besides the unit will have to replaced anyway before we tackle the Mauritanian crossing en-rote to Senegal.
30-11-2003 to 09-12-2003
OK I’m not going to bore you silly with a blow by blow account of the last 9 very frustrating days…here’s an outline:The package left Motorworks (UK) on the 29th November via DHL Worldwide Express. The cost for the delivery to Merzouga was quoted by DHL as £98.00. The shaft arrived in Casablanca the following day and has sat there ever since…Here’s why. DHL don’t deliver outside Casablanca, Fes and Marrakech and had mistakenly told Motorworks they could deliver to Merzouga. Motorworks had included on the invoice with the shaft the costing for the shaft itself and carriage. Upon arrival in Morocco there is duty to pay of 80.25% of the value of the invoice, yep that includes the carriage. Enter left of stage the star of this entire soap opera…my sister Sally (in the UK). Sally got DHL to admit fault and remove the fee of £98 from the Motorworks account and so in turn off my bill. Motorworks would still need to send a new invoice to Morocco customs showing just the amount for the shaft and not delivery. Moroccan customs came back with a “sorry it doesn't’t matter what new invoices we get, we’re only releasing the package upon receipt of the duty calculated upon the original invoice. So now I’m looking at not only 'not' having the shaft, still having to pay to get it from Casablanca to Merzouga (2 days ride away) but also paying duty on carriage which now isn't’t being charged…the idea of conspiracy theories is suddenly comforting. Sally then spent days talking with Motorworks, DHL UK and DHL Morocco not to mention Moroccan customs. The end result as of 5pm on the 09-12-2003 is that DHL have removed the carriage fee and have also agreed to pay the duty on the carriage they’re not charging. With the right faxes and emails exchanged the shaft should have cleared customs this morning and is being sent to Merzouga via the Post, marked express and requiring a signature. All we can now do is carry on waiting…don’t miss the next installment of… ‘I’m in the desert and my bike doesn't’t work’…On the upside of all this we’ve met some great people in Land Rovers driving the same route to South Africa. To David, Catya, Phillip and Stephanie, don’t drive to fast, we’ll catch up soon. Thanks for the moral boost over the last few days.
06-12-2003
Yeah I know we've gone back in time but...during this frustrating period I had my 34rd Birthday and although Lisa and I have stinking colds the evening was fantastic. Unbeknownst to me the guys working at our Auberge has found out it was my Birthday and had organised an apple cake and some traditional music. So after Lisa and I had walked back from getting some food. I was ushered into the large room by 3 other guest, happy Birthday was sung by anybody who knew the words. Idir (the Auberge Manager) came out with an apple cake and a band of 5 Moroccan musician struck up at a fevered rate. I was totally speechless, yes to those who know me...speechless. The festivities carried on for an hour and Idir surprised me once again by presetting me with a birthday gift, a genuine Tourag head cloth all 6 metres of it.

ok the third part is over click here to go to the fifth part of the Moroccan section