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| 23-05-2004
: SOUTH AFRICA |
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| At
6:30 the mobile phone buzzed us awake, after 7
weeks of meetings, bike fixing and general preparation
in a few short hours we’d be on the road
again. We were anxious and nervous again much
like when we’d left the UK 1 year ago. We
wished Petra and Christa farewell and grabbed
some fuel before waving adios to Cape Town, for
a few months at least and picked up the N1 at
exactly 9am.
The
sense of excitement of what lays ahead hit us
instantly and caught us both off guard a little.
The
morning started off foggy and cold, it didn’t
matter; we were on our way and heading for an
overnight stop on our way to Johannesburg to meet
up with BMW, Fuji and maybe Continental. The N1
was the only road we’d see all day and will
be with us all the way to Jo’burg. Sitting
at around 70-80 mph the whole way we stopped only
a few times before finally pulling off to find
a Motel at Colesberg at GPS: 30 43 E025 04. We’d
clocked up 511 very blustery miles but feel great.
Night, night. |
| 24-05-2004 |
| Side
stands got kicked up and plumes of exhaust fumes
bellowed, made visible by the freezing air of
the early morning. By 8am we were again on the
N1 and unusually cold. For the first time in quite
a while we flipped the heated handle bar switch
in order to get some feeling back in our hands
and had plugged the heated waistcoats in. With
our fleeces over the waistcoat we’d forgotten
what it was like to ride so encumbered with layers.
The
N1 reached out before us in a straight line for
as far as the eye could see and with each rise
we crested there it was again…very long
and very straight. This has got to the longest
and straightest road that either of us has ever
ridden.
By
1pm we needed to stop, the seemingly endless N1
was sending us to sleep so with eyelids feeling
heavy we pulled over and slept for 15 minutes.
By late afternoon we’d passed Johannesburg.
True to form we’d hit North Pretoria in
rush hour and resigned ourselves to join the long
queues at traffic lights. With Lisa out of sight
and several cars back, I pulled away as the lights
went green, quite suddenly Lisa concerned voice
rang through the Autocom, “Simon, I’ve
been hit, Simon I’ve been hit…SHIT!”
My immediate panic was quashed. The fact that
she was talking to me meant that Lisa was still
attached to the bike and probably unhurt.
Lisa
was off her bike and talking to the driver of
the car, which had rear-ended her when I got to
her. The driver’s foot had slipped and she’d
driven into the back of Lisa’s bike, causing
little damage to the F650 but rather impressively
damaging the bonnet, wing and drivers side lights
of her Vauxhall. After initially telling Lisa
she didn’t speak English, she soon discovered
something very similar and in no time was handing
over insurance details and driver licence numbers.
Lisa
had been lucky and was more pissed off than anything
else. With the bike checked over we’d soon
rejoined the traffic and some 15 minutes later
were being greeted by Amanda at the house. |
| 25-05-2004 |
| Lisa
writes: This morning Amanda looked after us so
well I was worried that Simon would want to stay
and be adopted! After breakfast we all jumped
into their very large Ford 4x4 and headed off
to find the Zambian embassy in Pretoria –
one of the reasons we decided to come to Pretoria.
Apparently you can get the visa at the border
with Botswana but unless you get a 7 day transit
visa you pay the same amount and it sometimes
takes 3-4 days – don’t’ fancy
waiting at a border for that long.
We
headed off to the ‘embassy area’ only
to find that the Zambian embassy was in a different
location from most of the others –. GPS:
S25 44.495 E28 12.391 and that it was closed!
Typical. Yet another country celebrating ‘Freedom
Day’. Ah well – at least we know where
it is for tomorrows trek out. The day however,
wasn’t wasted…Amanda then took us
out for lunch in Pretoria just around the corner
from the embassy ‘Cool Runnings’ GPS
S25 45.074 E28 14.015 a very relaxed place where
the food is good and cheap. |
| 26-05-2004 |
| Back
into Pretoria to apply for visa |
27-05-2004 |
| Picked
up visa’s |
| 28-05-2004 |
| Out
at night to see one of Amanda’s sons’
bands….very good. Very late night –
we were meant to be getting up at 5am for a trip
to a game park ….but I think that’s
off till another day as we didn’t get in
till 3am!! |
| 29-05-2004 |
| A
very lazy day – Simon worked on getting
comp stuff up to date. |
| 30-05-2004 |
| Heine
and flown back from the UK this morning and by
9:30am was pulling into the driveway having been
picked up by Amanda. 30 minutes late and we’d
bee introduced, what a great guy. Heine’s
also motorbike crazy and it had been arranged
that we’d take a ride up and through the
Eastern Transvaal area of SA. 4 ½ hours
later and we were enjoying wonderful fast twisty
roads in the hills and making our way to an overnight
stop at a Hotel known to Heine and Amanda. Being
able to ride without our luggage, at speed and
being able to really lean the GS’s over
was bliss. The roads are smooth and predictableAmanda
refused quit adamantly to take any money from
us towards the cost of dinner or the Hotel. A
great day with good company. |
| 31-05-2004 |
| Not
sure what to write here, simply because I don’t
want to reuse the same words, great, wonderful,
brilliant, exciting, etc. But the riding today
was all of those. The Eastern Transvaal really
is a motorcycling Mecca. Fast long bends one after
another, even the camber of the bends is in the
right direction.
Wonderful
bends aside, I did have a close call today; Approaching
a long left hander, doing around 90mph and trying
to catch Heine on his Fat boy Harley, a cow made
it’s way up onto the road in front of me
appearing out of nowhere from the long grass on
the side of the road. I managed to swerve to the
right and thought I’d managed to miss it…nope!
The back of the bike was spat to the right as
his head smacked the front; yes the leading face
of my pannier. This means I’d missed hitting
him with the actual bike by centimetres. That
was too close. Inspecting the pannier when we’d
finally caught up with Heine at ‘The Potholes’
showed that the impact had completely warped the
pannier. Front, sides and the back were all out
of shape. I’d been lucky and the cow must
have one hell of a headache.
If
you’re in this area try and get to an area
called ‘Gods Window’. It’s a
mountain view point providing stunning views of
the escarpment below. You can find ‘Gods
Window’ at GPS: S24 52.595 E30 53.284
‘The
Pothole’ are a series of large rounded shapes
cut into the rock by the fast river, which runs
through this valley. Sorry I forget it’s
name but the shapes are wonderful and easily accessible
as walkways now cross the river providing good
viewing points. The Potholes are at GPS: S24 40.366
E30 48.495 |
| 01-06-2004 |
| Spent
the day working on the web site. Amanda took my
pannier into a panel beater who knocked it back
into shape. Nothing seems too much trouble for
these kind people. |
|
02-06-2004 |
We’d
set the alarm for 5:30am…unfortunately it
went off on time and by 5:40am we’d dragged
ourselves up. Meeting Amanda in the kitchen we
downed coffee and woke ourselves up.
Amanda
was up, sorting out food for the clan and we were
waiting for Albert and Alouise who had kindly
offered to taxi us around the Pilansberg Game
Reserve.
It
was a short hour drive to the parks gate and once
inside we settled back and took in the views.
Within minutes Albert had decided that following
the tracks was for amateurs and that he definitely
wasn’t. So, with a sharp tug on the wheel
we were shooting off into bush scrub and bushes.
An hour later and the going was getting difficult
and slow. The fact that all four of us had the
giggles having not seen a single bloody animal
wasn’t helping. Albert was having a hard
time concentrating. It was time to head back to
the track.
By
mid afternoon we still hadn’t seen any of
the’ big five’ (Lion, Buffalo, Leopard,
Rhino and elephant) but strangely enough the more
they eluded us the more persistent we became.
Our time wasn’t wasted…graceful giraffe
ate nonchalantly metres away as we passed quietly
by and Blou Wildebeest took their time crossing
road within touching distance. The lead male was
feeling defensive and deciding we were a little
to close, came our way. Stomping the ground with
his hooves and frantically nodding his head to
show us his huge horns was part of the show. We
got the message and Albert reversed up.
Magical.
Elfin-faced Impala timidly watched on from the
safety of the scrub but now and again close enough
to photograph. We were in our element.By closing
time all the ‘big five’ had evaded
us but it really didn’t matter we’d
thoroughly enjoyed our day.They’ll have
to wait till’ the Serengeti. |
| 03-06-2004 |
| Being
several weeks behind on the diary today I’m
locked up in Heine’s office at the house and
am just writing and uploading whilst Lisa researches
the route, places to stay and how far we may be
able to travel each day. |
| 04-06-2004 |
| Our
big day had arrived; our meeting with BMW. Robert
Barnes head of BMW Lifestyle in South Africa was
expecting us at 10am.At ten minutes to, we’d
parked up and were inside the amazing circular glass
building that is the BMW lifestyle centre. Robert
greeted us enthusiastically and minutes after we’d
found a table and were deep in conversation. Two
hours later and things were going well. Robert was
already knocking around ideas as to how BMW SA could
get us involved with several substantial plans,
being arranged for later in the year. Robert struck
us as sincere, and following the opportunity to
take a few photos we left feeling optimistic. Roberts
last few words resounding in our ears. “I
feel very positive that we can really do something
worth while for you and you for us, no I’m
sure”. Well we’ll wait and see. |
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ok
this part is over
click
here
to go to the Botswana section
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| winding
up one of the blissful roads in the Eastern Transvaal |
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| Aaaaahhhhh! |
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| wild
hippos in the transvaal |
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| mother
& baby |
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| a
glimpse of 'Gods Window' |
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| 'Gods
Window' |
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| Heine
& Amanda |
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| "the
cow must have had a headache". |
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| the
gorge at 'Potholes' |
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| ancient
landscapes |
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| wonderfully
symmetrical shapes cut out by the swirling water over
a millennia |
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| more
potholes |
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| Albert
'off-roading' it |
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| the
elvin faced Impala |
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| Blue
Crane-SA's National bird |
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| akwardly
elegant |
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| a
herd of Blou Wildebeest make their way across the track |
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| the
lead male feels we're to close |
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| ...and
he's not backing down! |
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| Robert
Barnes & us at the BMW lifestyle centre in Jo'burg |
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| the
unique BMW lifestyle centre |
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