We Left Rangi’s early in the hope of beating at least some of the manic traffic. By early morning we'd left Nairobi’s madness behind us and had eased our way through several of the small villages that make up the city’s periphery.

Before long we’d found our normal cruising speed and were taking in the wide, dry savannah view around us. Like before we were taking advantage of the old oil road, which acts as a decent shortcut, getting us South to the A104. The riding was easy and enjoyable with good tar and even a decent breeze ensuring we didn’t roast in the mid-day sun.

By early afternoon we were approaching the Kenya-Tanzania border. We weren’t looking forward to this, as the last time we were here for 3 ½ hours whilst the Kenyan’s argued about our fees. In bizarre contrast, this time, we were out of Kenya and through in to Tanzania faster than…a very fast thing? 35 minutes and we were on our way. That’s got to be the fastest border crossing of our entire trip to date. O’ yeah, O’ yeah…victory dance…victory dance…how ‘bloody’ happy were we? Brilliant. We can now get a move on and still arrive at Ma and BJ’s at a reasonable time.

Kilimanjaro wasn’t playing today and was sulking behind the cloud base that lined the horizon, so no view. It didn’t matter we’d seen it close up.

With a few stops for water and photos en-route taken in we pulled slowly into Snake Park and threw up the tent. A voice over our shoulders said in a still distinctive South African twang “ Aahh we wondered when you’d be back…hello”. Ma’s wry grin was a welcome sight. It feels good to be back.

Lisa’s bike none to happy with the back end bouncing about and leaning over an alarming amount when on side stand, so I’d be spending some time in the work shop today.

The Ugandan riding has taken it’s toll. Having discovered that Lisa had completely sheared a main frame bolt, which holds together her under frame and also secures her side stand, I spent most of the morning zotting about Arusha trying to pick up a 23cm high tensile bolt with a 10mm thread. The best I could do was find two 16cm bolts and so resolved to spend some time filing them down and then weld them together.

And so back at SP and with the help of Issac (a very clever man with a welder) we managed to get a good enough weld to hold and even got them straight. With a few other adjustments made and the new bolt in place the F650GS is looking and feeling a little happier. As for the bouncing effect, well as far as I can see Lisa’s blown an oil seal and so is steadily loosing her rebound damping, unfortunately there’s not much we can do about that until we get back to South Africa.

Another day at Snake park

Today was a long one. 430 miles from Arusha to Dar Es Salaam.

We left Snake Park as the Sun was just rising and stopped just once for fuel. After dealing and surviving the Kampala and Nairobi traffic, Dar’s doesn’t seem so bad. Turning off the main road and finding familiar streets we made our way to Gill and Noli’s. We felt terrible for not calling ahead to let them know, but we had no coins on us and trying to find a payphone had been useless. Much as before the large heavy wooden gates opened up for us and we parked up inside. Gill’s welcome as we dismounted our bikes was exactly what we’d hoped for, easy familiar and warm.

Note: some time later we were both a little shocked to see ourselves in the bathroom mirror. We hadn’t seen ourselves for a while and hadn’t realised how knackered and dreadful we looked. Gill mentioned later that she’d actually been quite concerned when we first arrived. I can’t get over that she actually kissed us hello…I wouldn’t have touched me with a ten-foot barge pole!

A relaxing day at Gill and Noli’s

With a little diary and web page work done I’ve decided to start putting together a slide presentation; one that we can use to raise some funds and also use for BMW in SA, however after initially starting off in Microsoft PowerPoint I’ve realised that I’m not going to be able to put together the type of presentation I have in mind, PowerPoint has to many limitation. Instead I’m going to have a crack at teaching myself Macromedia Flash (a professional web animation package).

With a new local Italian restaurant opening only a stones throw away, we spent the evening with Gil and Noli’s friends…not the ideal evening. Great company, unfortunately after waiting 1 ½ hours for our food Noli's patience was being tested. With food half cooked and some cold it wasn’t the auspicious start the restaurant hade hope for. They had simply overbooked.

I've Spent the last few days learning Flash.

We’ve had an email from Paul and Melissa, the couple we travelled with in Morocco and originally met in Casablanca picking up our Mauritanian Visas. Apparently they’re both safe and well and in Dar. We’ve arranged to meet up tomorrow at 10am. It’ll be great to catch up.

Our 9th Wedding anniversary.

The phone rang at 9am and Paul did his best to cover how ill he was actually feeling. To cut a long story sideways, he and Melissa had gone out last night, got absolutely ‘hammered’ and were in no fit state to meet us at 10am as arranged. Melissa’s voice was heard in the background to say “Paauul don’t arrange anything, don’t arrange anything”. She really didn’t sound well.

After agreeing to meet tomorrow I relayed the story to Lisa and conveyed their apologies in between grins.

Alternate plans could now be made for our day and so with the help of Gill 'plan B' was called in…we were having ‘luncheon’ with Julie (The British High Commissioners wife) at the British High Commission...”as one does”!

Hopping into the Range Rover and with Gill’s driver at the wheel we were driven the few Km’s to the High Commission. Large metal gates were opened and we pulled up outside the main entrance. Julie greeted the three of us warmly; We liked Julie very much from our first introduction 6 weeks ago, it was nice to see her again.

Before long we were sitting in comfortable chairs in the garden and recounting just a few of our experiences from the last couple of weeks. Gill leant over to Julie and subtly mentioned that it was our Wedding Anniversary. Following a quiet word to one of the staff, moments later Lisa was wearing a smile as big as the Sun as we slowly sipped and savoured the softly sparkling Champagne we’d been served. Oh this was good.

With pre-lunch drinks enjoyed and having been given a tour of the large gardens by Julie we were soon back inside and with lush heavy carpet underfoot, climbing the stairs to the first floor for lunch. Awards, certificates, letters of commendation and other Royal regalia hung from the walls of the stairway, each framed with a hard wood glossy frame, and set with Ivory coloured backing. Elegant and yet understated but all very British.

We sat for an hour and enjoyed lunch as much for the company and surroundings as we did the food. Shiny silver platters were laid gently on the circular table and in magician like style their silver cupped lids were smoothly whisked away, revealing the feast below. The freshly prepared Tuna steaks were a sight for sore eyes. The easy and elegant manner of both our situation and company heightening our enjoyment all the while.

As each course was finished Julie’s impeccable staff respectfully served the next. The Indian Ocean only 50 metres away lapped patiently at the shore as if waiting for us to finish our food.

With a few more stories swapped and lunch at an end there was only one task left to complete, that of twisting Julies arm in getting her to agree to join us for dinner tonight. As a treat (certainly for us) Gill and Noli have arranged for us to dine at The Royal Palm and have invited a few friends. With Andrew (The British High Commissioner) attending a meeting at the Hotel it seemed perfect for Julie to join us and for Andrew to follow suit following his meeting, and so it was agreed.

We thanked Julie for a wonderful lunch and made our way outside. Stood in front of the large white imposing building Julie calls home and with the red, white and blue of the Union Jack flapping in the background a few photos were a must. How could we not?

By 8pm the four of us were parking up at the Royal Palm and the large heavy glass doors to reception were being opened. Noli received respectful nods of acknowledgment by the staff as he led the way to the Serengeti restaurant. We loved every minute of it.

What a wonderful evening and what an exceptional way to spend our 9th wedding anniversary. We spent hours talking excitedly with our dinner companions who seemed genuinely interested in our exploits. Gill and Noli were the consummate hosts and had invited José Maria, the Ambassador of Spain and his wife Teresa. Wonderful people with more than a few of their own stories to tell and by mid evening Andrew (BHC) had joined us. Again, by evenings end we felt incredibly lucky to have been able to have enjoyed such wonderful hospitality and friendship. Not bad for a couple of dirty bikers from Somerset.

An early start to the day this morning as we said goodbye to Gill and Noli who were flying into the UK for business and for Noli to get a medical check-up. But you know the saying ‘it’s a small World’, well the Professor that is seeing Noli and saw him several years ago just happens to be Richard (our brother in-law). How weird is that?

By 6:30am we were saying goodbye as they drove out the gates. We’d been given the run of the house and were staying for another day in order to meet up with Paul and Melissa.

10am came round and we were searching the reception of the Royal Palm. Paul’s grinning face came round the corner and hugs and kisses exchanged, before long we’d found Melissa and done the same. We excitedly swapped stories for 2 hours each of us listening intensely to the others exploits. There’s a reward in talking about your travels to people who have done similar and can actually understand the context of your yarn.

Paul and Melissa still had a few jobs to sort in Dar and so we arranged to take a break for a couple of hours and meet up a little later and grab a bite to eat. We were going back to the Italian place to give them a second chance. Their prices were pretty good.

We’d said goodbye to P & M back in Merzouga (Morocco) after my drive-shaft problem when they continued South. The night before their departure we’d managed to pick up a bottle of red wine, which we’d then forgotten to drink. Incredibly they still had it, and its been rolling around the Land Cruiser for almost a year. Well after carrying the thing for almost 12 months in the hope that the 4 of us would eventually meet up again to down it, now was the time, and so by late afternoon we were back at Gill and Noli’s and rather nervously uncorking what we presumed would by now be Moroccan vinegar. To our surprise it was drinkable…well kinda’ OK. School children grins were exchanged between the 4 of us as we sipped on the red stuff.

Our meal at the Italian was a huge improvement from our last visit and enjoyable hours passed as we continued to share our stories. Finally by 11pm fatigue was getting the better of all of us and so much like this morning hugs and kisses were exchanged and we wished each other farewell and safe travels. Who knows which country we’ll meet up in next?

It was time to Leave Dar and head South and so with an early start and with the bit between our teeth we waived the coast line goodbye and hop on board the Main A7.

It was 370 miles to Iringa and the Kisolanza camp was 60 miles past there. An early start meant an early finish and with daylight left we threw up the tent sorted some food (we had been given a ‘packed dinner’ by Gill) and watched a blood red Sun sink beneath the pink sheet of cloud on the horizon.