…the
very name conjures up images of turn of the century
daredevils in barrels, Marilyn Munroe inspired
honeymooners and the ceaseless cascade of thunderous
water, which makes up Americas most famous and
powerful waterfall.
Our
ride from America’s west coast hadn’t
been the best. Gusting winds had pushed us around
like the proverbial rag dolls. We’d barely
escaped tunnels of twisting wind in Tornadoes
alley and then almost been stopped in our tracks
as a 500-year flood practically washed away the
mid-west. The presentations that have interspersed
the journey have been a real respite from the
unpleasant slog and brought their fair share of
‘big grin’ moments.
All
the above was about to be made worthwhile.
We’d
wondered why we were both so genuinely excited
about riding to Niagara Falls? We’d been
to other falls, some far, far larger than the
ones at Niagara, so what’s the big deal?
I’ll tell you! Apart from 100-years of Hollywood
hype and their sheer mesmerizing size and power,
you can get closer and wetter to these falls than
any others we’ve been lucky enough to see.
Sure looking at waterfalls is pretty, but being
soaked to the skin and almost blown off your feet
by the unremitting power of water is humbling
and inspiring all at the same time.
The
falls at Niagara are made up of two major sections
separated by Goat Island: Horseshoe Falls, on
the Canadian side of the border and American Falls
on the United States side. The smaller Bridal
Veil Falls also is located on the USA side, separated
from the main falls by Luna Island, a great place
to get a real good view as the Sun Set’s
and the night time illuminations of the falls
begin.
We’d
jumped on Tinkerbelle and ridden the easy 7-miles
trip to North America’s oldest state park,
followed the signage and parked up on Goat Island.
We’d even beaten the parking attendants
to work and so passed the pay booth, kicked down
the side stand and set about getting our day in
order. Saving $8 and not having to pay for all
day parking was a good way to start the day. It
was now 7:00am.
We
milled about, got our bearings, picked up a park
map and waited until 9:00am for the ticket booth’s
to open. We done some homework last night and
were avoiding the ‘guided-tour’, at
$80 is seemed a bit steep. That said, we’d
learnt that for $30 each we could experience most
of what the park offered and at our own pace.
The
cave of Wind was our first stop. Or the tunnel
of incredible flatulence as we came to affectionately
call it..yeah, we’re sad like that, but
it made us giggle.
We
showed our passes and followed the small early
morning crowd into the plastic room (again our
name for it) where we’d be handed our souvenir
plastic sandals and sexy bright yellow see through
ponchos. ‘Big Bird’ eat your heart
out!
We’d
beaten the throng of people that were now spilling
from the tourist coaches that had just turned
up. I was in ‘one of those moods’
and feeling very Monty Python as I looked around
the room. 30 or so people, of all ages and sizes,
each with a bright yellow throw away poncho, slightly
bent forward to compensate for the weight of the
mandatory rucksack stuck on their backs. It looked
like a big yellow Quasimodo convention. Just think
about that for a minute, It’ll make you
grin. “Coooomminggg Maaaaaster”!!
We
joined a small group of ten, and then in true
American fashion set about navigating our way
through and around the infuriating winding line.
You know the one that’s designed to keep
control of 200 people at the post office and just
leads back and forth and back and forth, so that
every 10 seconds you find yourself saying “morning”
or “hello’ to the same people as your
path’s cross for the 54th time and miss
time a ‘heads-up’ and your eyes accidentally
meet! With only ten people it just seemed a bit
like over-kill. Like using a Magnum 45 to kill
a mosquito. My head was still conjuring up strange
analogies!
The
excited chatting and hushed laughter from the
line disappeared as we enter a strict ‘no
smiling, talking or eye contact zone’, commonly
known as a lift, that’s an elevator to our
American friends. Just like a morning train or
tube ride…only…’smaller’,
they seem to suck all frivolity, laughter and
life out of anyone who dares to enter.
We
plunged 175 feet in the space of about a minute
and all found our lighter happier selves again
as we bundled out of the lift and made for the
start of the tour of ‘The tunnel of incredible
flatulence’, sorry, ‘The Cave of Wind”!
Wearing
an impressively ‘day-glow bright orange’
rain suit (not to be confused with a throw away
poncho) our temporary guide, dished out facts
and figures in a lack luster way that can only
come from saying the exact same thing ‘one-hundred
million’ times a day and then wished us
on our way as we headed down the path towards
our first royal soaking of the day. Yeah, I know
it sounds like I’m making fun but this was
all great stuff. And the winding lines dulled
guide and silly jokes are all just part of what
we hoped for. We were loving the cliché
of it all and we were in for an absolute treat
of a day.
Outside
and at the bottom of Niagara Gorge the noise was
already deafening as the Bridal Vail falls came
crashing to down on the pummeled rocks below.
The ‘cave’ as such is now gone, collapsed
back in 1954. What awaits now is a truly breathtaking
walk around wooden walkways that get you closer
to the falls than I ever thought possible. How
the hell do they build these staircases, I thought?
Near the rocks it was hard to stand even with
the stability offered by flat wooden walkways
and hand rails. How do they brace themselves here
to work, as apparently the whole walkway is disassembled
and then reassembled between November and April
due to the destruction caused by the freezing
water that otherwise encases the walkway.
The
winding walkway gets you closer and closer to
Bridal Vail and in turn wetter and wetter until
at last you’re stood on the famous ‘hurricane
Deck’ battling to stand as heavy cascades
of water hit either you or the deck around you,
the force of which is hard to describe. Excited
screaming like a girl is mandatory even for the
adventurous biker types!
We
were going to have to get these grins surgically
removed from our faces. What the hell was the
point of those goofy looking ponchos; everyone
and I mean everyone was soaked to the skin, poncho
or no!
The
wet excited buzz of adrenalin fuelled conversation
could be heard all the back up the tunnel that
lead to the lift and then back up to our starting
point…’The Plastic room’. Just
brilliant.
Back
upstairs we clicked and pressed the buttons on
our new POV.1 cameras. Well, it says there water-proof,
now seemed like a good opportunity to put that
to the test. They worked brilliantly and whilst
others were battling to video and protect their
expensive toys from a royal drowning with clumsy
plastic supermarket bags, we had just held the
lens and filmed the whole thing. Check out the
podcast coming up on the index page or YouTube.
It
was going to be along day as we’d planned
to be around for the July 4th (Independence Day)
and the much promoted firework extravaganza over
the falls.
Our
passes gave us free use of the green park busses
(trollies) that we’d seen flying about the
park and would pick us up and drop us off at various
points, park wide. Right now we needed to dry
off and head over to the observation deck and
the ‘Maid of the Mist’ launch point.
We’d
been surprised by how relatively quiet the falls
had been so far. We were already wet so it seemed
like a good time to jump aboard ‘The Maid
of The Mist IV” and like so many other tourist’s
before us see the Canadian Horseshoe falls close
up. We’ve both seen this particular boat
attraction so many times on TV, documentaries
and films alike, it felt suddenly and surprisingly
surreal to actually be boarding the famous white,
tug boat shape vessel and heading up Niagara’s
famous Gorge to the foot of the falls.
Well,
if you’re going to get wet you may as well
get truly drenched, and so with that thought in
mind we pushed and shoved our way to the very
front of the boat and stood our ground at the
bow. Sailing pass the base of the American falls
to our left gives you a perspective like no other
and suddenly the magnitude of water cascading
over the top truly hits home, in a much more visceral
way that sheer statistics alone can. It’s
one thing, hearing that six million cubic feet
(168,000 m³) of water fall over the crest
line every minute and quite another being pushed
back by the rushing air escaping the foot of the
falls, as it makes way for the pounding water
to occupy the vacume. Raw power. A little like
the Sahara Desert, being this close has a way
of putting things…into perspective.
Once
again we used the POV.1’s try capture a
little of the experience. Closer to the foot of
the Horseshoe falls and we were getting closer
than I’d thought we’d go. I looked
around and wondered how much water the ship could
take on board before, before…you know..glug,
glug, glug.
The
cheers and screams of the passengers, now all
clad in bright blue ponchos, was being drowned,
literally by the white foaming water crashing
down all around and the deep throated growl of
the ships engines as it fought against the raging
waters flowing underneath it. Truth be told, you
could barely make out anything. It was a bit like
putting your face under the shower and trying
to breath.
And
then with a deft and much rehearsed turn of the
rudder, our white shirt dressed captain made a
left turn and you could feel the ship spin a swift
180 degrees as the sheer force of water pushed
the vessel once again downstream.
Back
on dry land and we just stood and grinned at each
other as river water poured at of our clothes.
From the base of the Gorge and back up the lift
we realized how well times our boat ride had been.
We’d stood in line for ten minutes before
heading to the water line and the ‘Maid
of the Mist IV’. There was now a line hundreds
deep and probably over an hour wait. It was time
for lunch.
A
hotdog and hamburger combo seemed only fitting
on this most American of days. It felt great as
the warm sun dried out our wet cloths and trousers
legs that 10 minutes ago clung wet to our legs,
let go.
By
the time 8:00pm rolled by we’d walked our
fair share of the park, visited the photographic
vantage points and made it back to the ‘Observation
Deck’ and found our spot for this evening
light show. I was keen to try to capture a photo
of the illuminated falls and the fireworks combined.
I was just hoping that I had a lens wide enough.
The Falls get illuminated by huge coloured spot
light at around 9:00pm and the Fireworks were
due to be launched from the Canadian side at 10:00pm.
We
set up the tripod, took a wide stance and held
our ground as the throng around us grew in weight,
numbers and cheeky little bastards that tried
to squeeze and shoulder their way past Lisa and
myself, into space in front of us that simply
wasn’t there! Why is it the same the same
little cheeky runts that want to push past you
are the same little sods with the very worst body
odour? We were already stood right up against
the railing, when one of them said ‘excuse
me’ in a very presumptive manner as they
pushed against us. I just looked down at him and
said flattley…”No”! A face looked
up surprised, like a ‘likkle animule caught
in the headlights. “There’s no space,
where do you think you going to go…and if
your going to push that hard into my ass, the
least you could do is buy me a drink first”.
OK, OK, you know I didn’t say the second
part, but it would’ve been funny?
Anyway,
munchkin boy got the message , grumbled something
under his breath and backed off, as Lisa just
turned her head and gave him the look of…death!
She’d been giving me sideways glances for
the last hour, most of which silently said…”Their
pushing me and leaning on me to get photos but
I’m not going to react…but…you
know if I wanted to I could…break them like
a twig…hiss”!!! A raised eyebrow and
persed lips speak volumes. For those of you that
know Lisa you know ‘exactly’ what
I Mean.
By
9:30pm the pink light of dusk had become night,
the falls were being bathed in a multitude of
ever changing coloured lights and a million camera
flashes were being set off. As the hour chimed
10:00pm the sky was lit with an explosion of ballooning
coloured light as a barrage of giant fireworks
lept skyward.

The
wait had been worth it…shoving and all!
I’m not going to sit here and describe fireworks,
but they were truly spectacular. Just check out
the photos.
What
a day. It’s now 2:30am, pitch black and
I’m outside the tent as Lisa sleeps inside.
I just wanted to write this up as it was fresh
in my head.
What
a day. Night, night!