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02-08-2008

We’d thought hard about leaving Bar Harbour this morning, largely due to the price but the constant rain was also having an impact on our mood and decision making. Neither of us was happy and the bickering between us and sharp comments were just fall out. We headed into the National Park HQ and parked up, Keenly aware of the attention we’d already picked up just in the car park.

The 52 steps up to the offices, felt more like 5000 with our sticky heavy rally suits and our MX boots weighing us down. Inside the busy wood and stone offices we waited our turn at the counter and moved slowly forward, until finally we were stood at the desk. We needed to find out the availability and price for camping at the state site.

A few minutes later and our mood had improved. $5 entrance For each bike into the park and $20 for the camp site. We had one more site to check and had heard about The Bar Harbour Campground. With the first cell phone reception we’ve had in 3 weeks we made the call. Things were getting better. At $28 for a pitch, this was $2 less than the state park site. “We’ll be with you in ten minutes I told Sam, on the other end of the phone.

Sure enough 10 minutes later and we’d checked in and even found pitch we liked. Bathrooms and facilities all looked decent and clean and even the rain had eased...a little.

We put the tent up fast as usual but it was all the fannying around trying to make a shelter over the wooden table with our tarp and groundsheets that took the time. However, this worked out well and was turning out to be a good decision as the rain was still coming down hard.

We spent much of the afternoon just walking around Bar Harbour town itself. We’d been surprised just how much attention we were drawing. With the bikes parked up, it had taken 20 minutes for us to get away. At one point we had 23 people stood around all eager to hear the answers to the questions that had been asked. The usual, “How far have you come, when did you start, how big are those gas tanks”

On leaving Bar Harbour was passed a couple of motorcyclists parked up – giving them the usual ‘motobiker wave’. It wasn’t until we were a little closer to our campsite that we saw two motorbike headlights coming up behind us. We turned into the campsite and so did they. Maybe they were also staying here? But no, Barry was a local and his friend Scott was just visiting him for the day. We chatted for a while in the car park and then all decided to huddle under our tarp-covered wooden picnic table drinking the large bottle of wine we had bought to cheer ourselves up on a wet and dreary night!

Barry and Scott’s good company made up for what has been a lack luster and wet day.

03-08-2008

Spent the day in an ice-cream and coffee café as ….guess what? ….it was raining hard again!

Any hopes of today being fruitful were about to to enter the frothy water that was now circling the drain and heading down the toilet bowl. The portable harddrive we’ve been using to store our video footage wasn’t playing nice. Try as I might it wasn’t going to let me in.

And so my day was mapped out. I was to surf the net, download countless rescue programs and trawl a hudred sites trying desperately to drag the data from the uncooperative drive.

I went to bed frustrated and concerned, having got nowhere

04-08-2008

Well, it’s bloody raining again! But we decided to explore a little of Bar Harbour in spite of the appalling weather.

Up to the National Park office to by our permit and then we just spent a few hours photographing the coast line. We didn’t really get the images we’d hoped for but then again cameras and torrential rain don’t really mix.

We’d met up with Barry again in the ice cream shop and hatched a plan to go for dinner at the restaurant across the road Barry surprised us by picking up the bill.

05-08-2008

During our dinner last night with Barry we’d hatched a cunning plan following a kind offer. We’d talked at length about the problems we were having with the video hard drive and our ‘other issue’, the fact that we have so little footage where both of us are actually riding…together.

Barry being an avid videographer had offered last night to follow us down to Freeport, filming us en-route. It was too good an offer to refuse. And so by 10:00am we’d met up at the ice-cream internet café that had become our sanctuary from the relentless rain and started our day.

We’d planned to just meet up with Barry, grab a fresh coffee, plan the filming and check up on emails. It didn’t quite go to plan.

Our first scare was that what is usually our homepage was suddenly just a large white blank space. “Shit, where’s our website gone”, I thought. We spent the next hour just trying to connect to our server in Ireland and upload the index page but after almost two hours we’d got nowhere. We’d have to leave it, get on the road and come back to the problem.

So all in all a gentle day. We’d played leap frog with Barry and his Suzuki V-strom as he filmed. Occasionally he’d blat off into the horizon only to appear in the distance as a man dressed in black standing in the centre of the road. It would make for some good shots but I was more concerned about him getting hit by stray and usually oblivious drivers.

By late afternoon we’d managed to avoid the highways and enjoyed some casual riding along the winding secondary roads and had made the town of Freeport.

We’d thanked Barry for his expertise and time before wishing him well on his 3-hour ride back.

Tonight we’re camped in a quiet little site right on the edge of the ‘Maine Dessert’ – never knew there was a desert in Maine!

06-08-2008

Oh, c’mon!!!!!!!!

Ok its official - we’re absolutely pig sick of this fu^*#ing rain. It started at 4:20am and hasn’t stopped all day. We’ve milled about Freeport (it’s not very ‘free’) and this afternoon said ‘sod it’ and went to the movies. It was the first time we’d been dry and warm all day. The new Mummy film was actually a bit of a disappointment: it had all the right ingredients but just looked a bit thrown together.

Right, we’re off back to our wet tent right now. Joy of joys.

Let’s hope for just a little sunshine tomorrow. If we wake up tomorrow to find we've grown fins and gills I wont be suprised.

07-08-2008
Right now we’re just too wet and too down in the mouth to write much. We’ve ridden down to Portland and booked into a motel 6. Pissed off with being wet!!!
08-08-2008
It’s still absolutely sodding awful outside and we’re just fed up being so wet. We’re booked for another night…sod the money.
09-08-2008
Well yesterday was actually pretty constructive. We made the most of internet access and sitting steadily at the low desk in the poorly lit room we managed to shoot off 2 dozen emails and trim our inbox down to a manageable level again.

By mid afternoon we even managed to get a call through to Dan, one of the owners at White Horse Press. We’ve been thinking more and more about the idea of a book or several. We’re now asked at every presentation when ‘they’ will be available.

Well after countless conversations and a lot of thought we’ve decided that we’ll start down the long process and putting something to print. We really have no idea where to begin but White Horse Press have a strong history and specialize in publishing motorcycle books, everything from adventure travel stories to ‘how to’ and mechanical books.

Dan and Judy Kennedy run White Horse and if we needed to start our research anywhere then White Horse Press was going to be a great starting place.

After our call to Dan, we both had a little celebration after arranging a meeting on Monday. Hey, there was no guarantee or real reason to think that White Horse would want or agree to see us.

We headed down to North Conway and spent over 2 hours riding from motel to motel trying desperately to find bed for the night. We were having no luck. Everywhere was either full or incredibly expensive. We’d even tried a few B&B’s but at $187 for a room with no bathroom things were getting silly. We’d pulled over and were scratching our heads when Craig and his travel-ready F650Dakar pulled up alongside. By luck or fate Craig was an old friend of Dan’s and Judy’s and was on his way to their office. “Why don’t you follow me there, Dan knows everyone, maybe he can help find you somewhere”, Craig suggested. Well it was the best idea we’d heard for a while and so that was it and so tailing our new riding buddy we were soon pulling up in front of the White Horse Offices.

Dan was as surprised to see us as we were to be there. It didn’t matter and soon conversation was in full flow and as Craig had suggested Dan had even managed to find us a room for the night.

We’ve arranged to move our meeting forward to tomorrow.

Tonight we’re at the Old School House Motel and yes it’s still raining!!!!!!!!!!!!

10-08-2008
We back-tracked our route and pulled up in the White Horse Press car park, before the side stands were down Judy was walking over to greet us. “I know a lot more about you than you do about us” Judy exclaimed with a broad smile. A heartfelt hug set the tone and made us feel welcome.

With coffee in hand and following a tour of the offices and we sat down with Dan to discuss publishing and whether we have anything to offer.

The learning curve was steep and we had some difficult questions to answer. We know by heart, the breadth and range of the experiences we’ve dealt with, have learnt from and want to share, however, on reflection I know we did a poor job of verbalising what we have to offer and why we think a buyer would pick up our book as opposed to another.

It’s a funny thing, for all the enthusiasm and energy in the world, when it come sright down to it, we’re going to have to take a cold look at what we have to offer from our experiences

Accepted an offer to stay with Dan and Judy. Great evening. Went out to eat.

11 to 14-08-2008
It’s been a good and rewarding few days.

We’d accepted a kind offer to stay with Dan & Judy and had followed Judy back to their beautiful home nestled amongst the local forestations. The bikes looked at home parked in the large open plan garage.

It felt good to be here. Dan and Judy’s sincerity and straight talking blew away a few cob webs and the insight into the publishing world has been eye opening.

Lisa’s even managed an evening out with Judy and I know enjoyed the local theatre production.

For the most time I have of course been sat in form of the PC. Carefully picking through the 50,000 digital images we’ve now accumulated on the various hard drives we carry with us. With images selected I’ve been optimizing them, correcting errors made at the time of the lens snapping closed and digitally mounting them into a format that will look great printed. We’re working hard on getting ideas and products ready for an online shop. We’re hoping to sell a number of our high res’ photos online. Who knows?


All that hard work was about to pay and sooner than we’d hoped. Just yesterday we’d received an email from Kevin, a young guy that had met us at the LA bike show. Kevin had been searching through our online images and had even presented a number of the low res’ files to his company Nik Software, the company that produce the digital imaging and manipulation software for Nikon the camera company. The images had received some positive reviews and the email was asking for higher res’ quality images. Well I’d already been working on around 30 of them and so sent of 15 across to Kevin. Who knows what will come of it but just to be thought of was quit a compliment.

In the mean time Kevin’s provided me with the operating codes for all the software produced by his firm and as we speak I’m busy downloading from the web. From what I’ve seen so far the software pretty powerful and will work in with my Photoshop workflow. You can tell I’m pretty excited.

15-08-2008
It was a little sad to wave adios to Dan and Judy. They’d become close friends quickly and easily.

We’d heard rave reviews of the route that had become known simply as…”The Kang”. OK admittedly it sounds more like the nick name given to the bully at school, but there it is. We had to ride the Kang. The Kanamangus highway (route 112) would lead us South, through an interconnected and endless number of left and right handers. We’d received a countless number of warnings of the treacherous switchbacks; they could prove our downfall and secretly looked forward to them. We’ve missed bends.

The Kang was nice enough, we had a few nice bends when the front tucked in, grabbed the asphalt by the scruff of the neck and held on tight as the rest of the bike leaned in, followed and pushed us through to the straight. We’d waited for the switchbacks that never came and pushed on a little disappointed.

Finally we opened up, joined the highway and wondered what all the fuss had been about. We’ve definitely been spoilt over the last few years.

We were later than we’d hoped for when we finally arrived at Second Wind, but what a welcome. Darrell and Sandy welcomed us with open arms and more enthusiasm than we’ve seen for a while. The dealership has an energy to it that starts with Darrell and sandy and goes through to the workshop that much was apparent within the first 20 minutes.

We were in for a treat. Sandy handed over the room reservation paper. The name across the top read…The Crown Plaza. That sounded good.

As we were leaving Sandy gave us the news. She’d seen Lisa having difficulties with her neck and had made…err…arrangements. Sandy grinned as she explained that her masseuse would be turning up at our room in the morning. We could barely believe our ears.

16-08-2008
Wow, Sandy and Darrell have set the bar high for any other dealer to follow.

The room phone rang at 8:45am and I’d answered in a sleepy voice. The chirpy voice on the other end said “good morning Mr Thomas, this is the front desk, you masseuse is here, may I send her up”? In my head I was saying…’oh hell yeah, giddy up, don’t spare the horses, what ya waitin’ for…why isn’t she here yet’?

I actually replied, “Yes that’s fine thank you”.

I looked at Lisa and gave her the news. Lisa’s grin was obscene. Andrea knocked politely on the door and hauled in her portable massage table. We spent the next two hours in a semi-Hollywood state of pampering and luxury, whilst trying hard to keep our ooohhhing and aahhhing to a minimum.

Bloody hell the presentation this afternoon is going to be our most ‘relaxed’…ever.

Andrea did a great job and at last we felt that some of our muscle issues that we’d been fighting over the last few months were finally getting sorted. This felt good. We were feeling so pampered.

Time was getting on and we needed to don our riding gear, pull out the bikes and ride down to Second Wind.

The warm welcome we had from Sandy and Darrell was just like yesterdays. Attendees were already parked up and checking out our bikes in seconds. We made our hellos and excused ourselves before heading inside.

All the tech stuff went well, our laptop spoke straight away with the projector and the sound system worked like a charm. The chairs were already out and we had our own space to lay out the prints and T-shirts from our trip.

There was a buzz growing and the atmosphere was setting us up for a good show.

Darrell was doing us proud, he’d already set aside time in the workshop, had grabbed the keys for both bikes and they were already inside and up on the ramp. Darrell had checked around and had managed to find some TKC80 throw always (tyres that someone has taken off to replace with new ones) and was putting those onto our bikes. By our standards they still had a few thousand miles left in them and in any case they were way better than what we were using now.

At 1:00pm with mic’s in hand we kicked off. The time flew by and we loved every second. The daft jokes, the silly double-entendres and photos we’d worked so hard to capture were all being enjoyed. The biggest thing for us is to get a reaction from the crowd. Our guests at Second Wind were great. The more reaction we get, the more motivated we are.

We’d had a blast. It’s truly a privilege being able to share our journey this way. The spread that Sandy had put out had been cleared and picked clean. Everyone was smiling and the buzz from earlier had now been exaggerated into something else.

We’ve spoken to Darrell and accepted his kind offer to open tomorrow for us, enabling us to get to grips with some overdue jobs on the bikes. Little things but overdue none the less.

Back at the hotel another surprise treat was awaiting. Darrell and Sandy had read on our website that our wedding anniversary was coming up on the 19th and so had arranged for a fruit basket to be delivered. The pungent aroma of exotic fruit was already fragrancing the room as we entered. This wasn’t a fruit basket; this was a work of art. It felt criminal to take it apart and eat it, but eat it we would. There’s something sublime about giant strawberries dipped in chocolate. Bloody hell this ‘adventure biking stuff’ is hard work!

For the rest of the evening we just ate the left over from last night’s dinner and enjoyed the lavish accommodation we were being treated to.

Unbelievable.

 
 
 
The next installment in the USA click here
 
 
 
 
click on the pics for
bigger images
taking cover for dinner under our trusty tarp
Maines stunning coast line
another foggy, wet day in Maine
 
the kitchen
 
...dare to be different...we think it's a girl?
Dan and Judy at White Horse Press
 
ready for the off
Sandy and Dale at Second Wind BMW
the dynamic duo
teh bikes getting inspected by the presentation guests
ready and waiting
 
 
Sandy
The stunning fuit basket Sandy and Dale organized to be sent to our hotel room for our anniversary
kind words
Lisa's bike ready for new rims
 
setting it up
 
 
 
 
Dale helping out with TInkerbelle on his day off
Mmm sexy...not!!!