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08 to 17-09-2007

It’s been a fun few days.

Heavy eye lids battled ‘lack of sleep’ and alcohol and finally peeled open later than we’d hoped and it was late morning by the time we’d got ourselves sorted and thanked Tom and Touratech for all their efforts and hit the road.

We’d been in touch with Greg on and off for about two years via email and had accepted an offer to visit and stay a few days post TT. The small town of Olympia was a short 1 ½ ride South from Seattle and we were both glad of it.

As we’d imagined, Greg and Mare welcomed us like old friends even though we’d never met and with conversation in full flow, we dumped our bags, cleaned up and bundled into Mare’s Mini. The traditional Italian restaurant Greg had raved about didn’t disappoint. We knew we were in for a fun weekend.

Saturday rolled around and I’d had enough of talking about riding I was desperate to go and do some, so as Lisa and Mare made themselves comfy in the back yard and blazing Sunshine, Greg and I threw on our bike kit and headed for the hills. Some 30 minutes later having headed down the highway 5, I followed Greg on his new R1200GS into the hills he knew so well.

I’m not sure what I find more bizarre; how much I thrill at being back on my heavy bike riding up and down dirt hills and single track, sweating my ass off or the simple fact that I do still absolutely love the experience after all the dirt miles we ridden? I’m like a giggling kid in a candy store, trying desperately to cram as much of the good stuff into my mouth as possible before I’m told to stop.

Greg was having a pretty good time and making the tight single track ride look easy on his GS. That said, Greg had come up with more than few wonderfully imaginative expletives to describe me, as, in his own words…”I’m dropped my f^*”ing bike more time with you in the last hour than I have in the last few years”! The wide grin stamped on his face was proof enough of just how much fun Greg was having in between drops, besides he didn’t actually have any real drops…only, as Lisa calls them…plops. I told him they didn’t count.

This is what riding is about…no bags, no panniers, a few litres of gas and a friend to go and explore somewhere new with, we were having a blast.

We rounded up the afternoon just going over a few drills that we thought might help Greg. Rolling starts and dismounts are always fun to learn.

We needed to get back. Greg and Mare had spoken a few days back to neighbors who’d not been able to make our TT presentation and before we knew it we agreed to lay on another impromptu show down in Olympia at the photography studio.

We’d spent a few hours yesterday sticking up flyers on the billboards around town. To be honest we didn’t think it very likely that we’d get more than about 10-15 guest turn up. You can imagine our surprise when we kicked off at 7:00pm and found 54 faces grinning back at us. Greg and Mare had done a stunning job and had rounded up chairs, projector, mic’s and even a dash to Costco for hand food.

With a glass of wine in hand Lisa and I spent a great evening sharing our stories and laughing at ourselves with new friends.

With the laughs from last night still ringing in our ears we spent the next day catching up on diary and web jobs before meeting up with Greg outside of his Army station just off the highway 5. We were heading back up to Seattle, well actually North of the city and meeting up with a bunch of riders from the ADVRIDER site. We’d had such a good time with so many of them at the TT show how could we not, and so by 7pm we were parking up in front of the Engel’s Pub and already excitedly comparing bikes and travel experiences. We’d met Marc (Springs) and his son danno at TT and from what we could make out, this regular meet at Engel’s was his doing. A weekly get together of likeable reprobates, or members of the asylum as they like to be called ? We wanted to say a big thank you to both Marc, Engel’s and everyone that made us feel so welcome and of course thanks for the Engle’s T-shirt…Lisa will wear it with pride!

We were on a roll. The next day and with an early start, we’d borrowed Greg’s truck and were once again heading back up the now familiar highway 5, yep once again heading for Seattle. We’d made a few more phone calls to Tim over at Cascade designs and cheekily asked for…a few more items that we’d missed on our original ‘wish list’. Tim met us with the same gusto and enthusiasm as he had originally and once again watched as we grinned uncontrollably as he escorted us around their huge warehouse. We’ve left with another large box of adventurous type goodies that should se us through to the end of the journey.

We spent the evening taking stock and enjoy Greg and Mare’s wonderfully easy company.

19-09-2007

4 years 4 months on the road. My God – it really doesn’t seem like it.
We left Greg and Mares late afternoon and headed down the Interstate to Portland. Stayed at a motel 6 as we are meeting Andy Stalsberg tomorrow.

03-09-2007
 
20-09-2007

Well – what a strange…but good day.

We’d last seen Andy on our wedding day, he’d been my best man and that was almost 13-years ago…wow doesn’t time fly.
Andy had employed me as one of his first staff, a loooong time ago (well it feels like it) and we’d hit if off. As a company we specialized in marketing and promoting health clubs. As you’ll remember a little someone whose name starts with ‘l’ and ends in ‘isa’ used to own one. Yep that’s how we met.

After selling her clubs Lisa and worked together for almost 5-years traveling the UK and working as a team. We’d joke about meeting up with Andy in the states someday. He hails from Portland. All this time later and at last it was happening.

We’re pretty sure Andy was doing a Dorian Gray, he didn’t look any different, in contrast to our own appearance. We under no illusions as to how we’ve aged on this trip. Ah well, it’s a small price to pay.

Life doesn’t stand still and things change and this was the first time we’d meet Ali, Andy’s new wife, well new to us. We liked her right from the start. Any women that can keep Andy’s childlike enthusiasm (for all things) and energy in check has to pretty cool right off the bat. It was great to see Andy as happy as he is.

Bizarrely, but in a good way, it seemed like nothing had changed for the 3 of us. We had admittedly been a little nervous at first; concerned that time would have altered somehow the bond of friendship that we’d remembered so fondly. That silly concern was wiped aside in the first few minutes and excited conversation struck up immediately.

Andy was the eager entrepaneur with the roguish grin we remembered so well, continuing to concoct new way to build his business with seemingly endless energy. The broad grin he used to wear was still part of his daily attire.

We had a really great day, visiting the sites of Portland and reminiscing.

Sharing good food and drink in unexpected places with old friends is something not to be taken for granted…and we didn’t.

…Andy and Ali it was great to see you, let’s hope we can meet up again…somewhere down the road.

21-09-2007

We needed to make a move and head South. We’d already spoken with Issa and had arranged for him to ride up to Seattle and join us for the coastal ride back down to San Fran’. We still had a few days before we’d meet up and right now we’re heading down to Tim and Steph’s, long time friends of Issa and Aimie.

By mid morning we’d made some way South and were pulling up on the driveway of the house. Steph gave us a warm welcome and big hugs and we made ourselves at home in the basement apartment they’d made ready. Tim made his announcement of arrival with a few load blats of his exhaust some time later.

It was a little strange…Listening to Tim talk, his vocabulary and inclination in his voice was like listening to Issa, maybe they are long lost twins…shit now there’s a scary thought?

As afternoon became evening we chatted, laughed and yes…drank with Tim and Steph as their young daughter Ruby, as she stole the night with her singing dancing and unabashed ‘cuteness’.

Now all that aside I must also state that the fact that Steph had a fully working arcade game called Centipede in the garage was distracting. I game that I’d become addicted to as a teen now had me again in it’s power…must play…must play…cant leave…must play.

22-09-2007
‘No, I don’t want to go to another farmers market’, I told Lisa. C’mon, there’s only so many times you can wow, oooh, ahhh..Look another aubergene or hand crafted knitted table cloth. Yeah I know that makes me sound like a complete philistine but today that’s how I was feeling. With that, and a look of absolute disgust from Lisa, she and Steph headed of to the aforementioned market.

I had a better offer. Tim needed to head over to his local BMW dealer anyway, BMW of Western Oregon, and to me tagging along g sounded like more fun. Besides in the back of my mind I thought ‘who knows, maybe they’ll be interested in a presentation at some point down the road’.

We had a great ride over. Traffic wasn’t to busy and following Tim who knew the road so well took the usual strain of me, yep had a blast.

I was surprised by how large this dealer was, the last time we’d seen this size of show room and workshop was the dealer in Rio de Janeiro, back in Brazil.
Oooooh, shiny things…

With Tim getting his jobs done, I’d found Kirt and introduced myself and handed over a presentation pack, and too be honest I was surprised by how well Kirt had received me and his genuine interest.

Back at Tim’s we met up with Lisa and Steph who’d arrived back only minutes before us and compared notes on our respective day.

23-09-2007
It’s a full house…

The low toned rumble of and R1200GS announced Issa’s arrival mid morning…he must have flown.

Oh God, between Tim, Issa and Ruby it’s been a while since we’ve laughed this hard this long.

We had a great night; Lisa cooked one of her famous Thai green curries.

24-09-2007
In the words of Black – Adder II, I’m going to have to start calling Lisa ‘Bob’ as the current confusion is getting embarrassing. Let me explain.

“Lisa can you find my clean underpants for me”, I yell! “…do I look like the fucking kack-fairy? Find your own pants”, yells Issa, somewhat bemused. “Issa, can you pass me the number 9 socket wrench and the grease nipple”? “Make your mind up I;m looking for you pants… I don’t have greasy nipples”, yells Lisa! Yeah…you can se where this is going. I’m scared to ask Lisa to join me in bed for fear of who’ll turn up ?

With all the bikes once again packed up and ready for the off, we thanked Tim and Steph for their kindness and honked the horn as the three of us headed down the street that would lead us back to the main road.

So here we are. The three amigos, err no…the three musketeers only with less sword play and definitely a lot less camp. Ok, moving on. We were going to see just how far South we could get today, no great plan just ride until we found a good camp spot.

We’d picked up highway 6 pretty easily, it obvious this wasn’t Issa’s first time doing this run. The 6 took us West and out through Tillamook and onto the main Highway 101, the famous route that runs along California coast North to South and vice versa. This was going to be a good ride.

Bright sunshine, clear roads, glorious country side and vistas and fast grippy sweeping bends that made you believe that God must be a motorcyclist. It just got better and better. By days end we’d made it past eh 400-mile mark and made camp outside of a small town called Barview at GPS: N43 19.839 W124 22.077.

A cautionary note: entitled how to set your friends on fire!!!

We’ve had a few glasses of wine and are happily setting about our own jobs, sorting out food, provisions, camp gear and of course the mandatory camp fire around which we’ll cozily chat about the days ride. Well that was the idea.

For neither love nor money the fires not happening. The wood a little wet and the kindling we’d scraped together was worse. As I’d done a thousand times before I decanted a small amount of gas from Lisa’s bike into the small bottle she carries on her bike and walked back to the fire. We’d spent some 10-minutes trying to get something to burn and so prior to sprinkling the gas in nthe fire I’d asked Issa, “so, is there a flame in there”? “Nope nothing” came the reply” from the man who at this point still had eyebrows! At this point you know we should have known better, that and the fact that Lisa’s just started telling Issa what an appalling reputation I have when it comes to fire and gasoline.

As I knelt on the still wet grass and poured the bottle gas sprinkled its way on to the kindling and wood, caught a lit embers and Whhoooossshhhhhhhh!!!!! The flame was already at the bottle full of gas. Instinctively I threw the bottle to my right and behind me, completely oblivious to the fact the that’s exactly where Issa had taken a stance for safety. The flaming gas shot out from the bottle, soaked Issa’s shiny new fleece sweater and lit him up like a friggin’ roman candle. Now Issa being the cool guy that he is, grinned at me and casually wiped away the flames with the back of his hands. Well that’s what he started to do before quickly realizing that his sweater was soaked in gas and oh’ his sweater is basically woven plastic. I never seen Issa skip, jig or for that matter prance before but let me assure you. He does it very enthusiastically. Style points 3 but wow 10 for effort. You get the picture. He was shouting something to himself, which apparently we learnt was the fire dance mantra (who knew) STOP, DROP ‘n’ ROLL. Joking aside you’ve never seen a guy throw himself to the floor so fast, with enough ‘wriggling‘ Issa quickly extinguished the flames. Lisa was horrified and I’d got uncontrollable giggles and now couldn’t breathe. Within minutes the seriousness of the situation had been taken on board, noted and then the laughing continued. I felt bloody awful. I’d just set fire to one of my best friends.

The 12 cans of beer Issa had bought earlier and had now been drunk just help extinguish the day.

..Wow!

25-09-2007

Lisa writes:

The night had been cold – we have become soft with all the ‘easy-living’ in the USA! I had forgotten to put the breakfast sausages that Steph had given us into one of our panniers and had instead left them wrapped well in one of our water bags. Simon had heard strange sounds during the night and thought someone was around the bikes – so he got up to ‘catch them’….and lo and behold……raccoons! All over the bikes – one on my airhawk seat – which was filthy with mud (well Im assuming it was mud!), one on the ground with his head covered in sausage and the other only showing his backside as his head was deep in Issa’s tankbag. Issa had no food in the bag and had just left it on overnight….it was just being hopeful I suppose. Simon said it was comical.
So –no breakfast!
The order of the day after waiting for the tents to dry a bit – as it had been so cold the condensation on them was awful – we had more coffee than we needed and got on the road late. At least the day had warmed up and the sun was shining.
The roads were great, twists and curves – ohh how much had we missed this!
Stopped for lunch and had oyster shots – they were huge! oh ...and fish and chips. could get used to this type of travelling!
This night we stayed amongst the trees – the Redwoods. Dusk was coming in – the time when my eyesight fails me (yeah, I know, old lady)– and we had been on the look-out for a camp area that would take tents. We find it strange that camping over here in the USA usually means sites that take those huge RV’s. mmm..we are not sure if that is camping…….anyway we found one that catered for tents and would sell us firewood and so were set for the night.
Question – why is it when you have a camping area with loads of room that someone places their camper van right next door???
They guys went out for food and beer! Whilst I put up the tent, got the stuff off out of the bags, set up the stoves, sleeping mats and bags and started the fire…..they guys came back with a few tins of ‘food’ and or course a big pack of beer. I think they had enjoyed the last ride of the day……
So after mixing up what I called a dog-food concoction – that both Simon and Issa said they enjoyed…….we played cards and all huddled around the now roaring fire.

26-09-2007
Lisa writes:

Still sunshine! We have been lucky with the weather……but not so lucky with my bike. This is unusual as my bike hardly ever has a problem! And now- when we have a time-limit, it is playing up. Almost like its coughing, especially up hill and when I open up. It is almost like someone is turning off the fuel for tiny short spurts. That is the only way I can describe it. It got worse and worse, until it was like a riding a kangaroo! And then it stopped – no warning – just cut out. Luckily we were not on a busy road. So pushing it over to the side we checked a few obvious things and then got the magic tool out. The GS911 diagnostic tool that Stephan from South Africa- Hex designs. Within seconds of linking it up to the laptop (we hadn’t got the software loaded onto our mobile phone….a job we have been meaning to do!) it talks to the bike through the ‘dongle’ via Bluetooth. We had fault codes galore! Lots! However there were 3 different codes, O2 sensor, fuel injector and coil I think….? There were so many that in the end the bike, in order to protect itself, had just shut down. Now we knew that none of these were serious or going to affect the engine or any other part of the bike if we re-set them and got the bike running again. So, we cleared them (after recording the fault screen on the camera) and got back on the road. Thank God for the GS911…!!!! Had we not had one we would have had to call out a tow truck at a cost of some $400-500 to tow us to the nearest BMW dealer.

It turned into a long, long day. As the faults were not solved they continued to disrupt the bikes running – at some points I could only go 40 mph – and once I hit the Interstate in order to reach Issa’s home in Oakland, this became a dangerous situation! None of the other road users seem to be awake – here we have 3 large bikes – all with their warning lights on – and guys are still coming up fast and realizing just a little too late that ‘oh duh' they have a problem……..duh maybe that’s why they all have their warning signals on’. I hate the Interstates in CA. Most people are totally oblivious of the other road users as they are too busy talking on their mobile phone/ eating/drinking/reading (yes, really)/ putting make-up on/ - or all of them together!! GGRRRRR.

Fed-up and tired we eventually arrived at Issa’s. A glass of wine always helps and so I had quite a few!

 
 
The next installment in the USA click here
 
 
 
 
click on the pics for
bigger images
fitting Lisa's new TT rally engine guard and new subframe with Greg's help
Marcus with my bike as we practise 'pick-up' technique
Marcus and his restored BMW doing drills
Greg practising fast rolling starts
Thanking Tim from Cascade after as we pick up sponsored kit.
guest's start to arrive for the impromptu presentation in Olympia
 
one of the slides
some of the gang we met up with at Engels pub
 
members of the asylum
talking 'bollow'
Springs steals my wife
 
 
 
Andy poses with Tinkerbelle...wonderfull to see him again after all this time
Ali on Lisa's bike.
good times in Portland
some of the stunning scenary as we ride the coast road south back to San Fran
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
a quick pit stop for lunch
 
 ...err, a big blue bull?
 
hooking up the GS-911 to Lisa's unhappy 650
 
...'SUCCESS'...lisa's fault codes are read and cleared and we can get back on the road. This saved a $500 towing fee.
through the giant redwoods
 
 
the famous road through the tree had to be done
the bikes parked up in Issa and Amies home
sorting tyre issues
Lisa hugging her new shock