Up early for breakfast at 7am. We were going to have to leave early in order to get to Ondangwa, a small airport in the North of Namibia before 5pm and avoid the extortionate late night landing fees.

This leg of our flight was going to be the longest at around 6 hours, weather dependant. As the hours went by we passed the time by playing musical chairs at 25,000ft. We lost count of the times we swapped seats with Barry and Toll, but wow, what an experience. Our luck was holding as we had very good weather all the way.

Time was getting on…Barry had suggested that for the sake of customs formalities, that we land at Ondangwa but we should then take off immediately and disembark at Mokuti Lodge which boasted its own landing strip and where we could spend the night. We were going to have to be quick if we were going to have to re-fuel the plane, clear customs and take-off again before 5:30pm in order to avoid more late fees. Barry assigned us each jobs, Lisa and I headed off to customs, Barry and Toll went off to complete their normal landing/take-off paperwork and Dieter went to refuel the plane. Things didn’t go smoothly…The customs guys who were meant to be there until 5pm had left early and had to be called on their cell phones and asked to return, they weren’t terribly happy. The same was true of the gent that Barry needed to see about his paperwork. Our 5:30pm deadline wasn’t going to be met. Back at the plane Dieter had organised the fuel, however, the ‘prat’ in charge of fuelling had decided to make a quick buck and it was going to be at our expense. He started by explaining that his credit card machine was broken so we would have to pay cash and he would only except cash in dollars. Of course ‘HE’ would then dictate the exchange rate, ensuring he would make about $200 on the rate. I couldn’t afford to except this…After almost an hour of arguing and explaining our situation we lost our temper…as things came to a head my protagonist tried to push past me in an attempt to dismiss me and leave his office. I saw red and in a flash I’d regained my balance and grabbed him firmly and shoved him back into his chair…this unsurprisingly didn’t help things. The end result was that time wasn’t on our side, we needed to leave and ended up paying the extortionate fee he’d demanded. We resolved to make an official complaint to BP’s head office.

With a swift take-off complete, we flew low over Etosha National Park, with Barry’s piloting skills giving us the chance to watch giraffes drinking from the river.

Mokuti Lodge…What a wonderful place – just on the edge of Etosha park. At reception Barry called in a favour and arranged a 35% discount for us. A wonderfully clean room with a truly African feel was waiting for us…heaven. Showered clean and with a good dinner enjoyed we headed for our room, tired, but incredibly excited to be in Namibia!

We’d arranged to meet at 5:00 am in order to unload the plane and introduce our bikes to Namibia. At 5:20am and still in pitch black we started to unload, an hour later and with a beautiful sunrise for company we were done.

The job of taking the bikes off the plane had proved much easier than putting them on in Accra. A short while later and with plane seats back in place it was time to say good-bye to our new friends, to whom we owed such a huge debt of thanks. They had provided us with such an unbelievable solution to a potentially dangerous and cripplingly expensive logistical problem. We were more than a little sad to see them go.

A short while later it was time for us to leave Mokuti, so with the bikes loaded and following a short conversation with the head gamesmen we were heading South to the town of Otjiwarongo, where it was suggested we could camp at Otijwa Game Ranch, which was owned by the same group as Mokuti. Johan had promised to call ahead of our arrival and try to organise some discount for us.

The road South was bliss, wonderful rugged countryside and silky smooth asphalt all the way. It was great to be able to just ride and relax. Following the wonderfully fast twisty Highway B1 we arrived at Otjiwarongo and finally Otijwa some 5 hours later having ridden through massive storms that circled us for hours – sweeping rain – lightening – how we didn’t get caught seems a miracle! A great and reasonably effortless 200.2 miles. Namibia is already proving to be a stunning and beautiful country.

Arrived at Otijwa Game Ranch and Sharmine and Chris (who currently run it) met us with a “ we have been expecting you!” they gave us 50% of the room which was a bathroom and double bed in a mobile home – very nicely done. We stayed and chatted with Chris, Sharmine and Johann (who was going to take over the running of the place from Monday) and they were very interested in the charity aspect of our trip. Johann said he would put us in contact with a Mrs List who is Patron of the Cancer Association of Namibia (C.A.N.) and may be able to help us.

With the opportunity to get some diary written we decided to stay on for another night. The good company was an added incentive. What we hadn’t realised is that we were the only guests.

The BBQ arranged for tonight was organised for the staff and the handing over of managership to Johan. We were told we would be most welcome as their guests!

Note: The ranch has the biggest private collection of white rhino in Africa – all owned by Mrs List.

By 7pm we were toasting everybody. Johann caught our attention; “I’ve spoken to Mrs list”, he started. “She’s expecting you tomorrow and you will be her guest at Midgard Lodge, both food and accommodation will be taken care of”. We were initially a little taken a back, not sure if this was an invitation or an order, either way it sounded a great opportunity, to meet an incredible lady that we’d heard so much about over the last day or two. Johan seemed a little embarrassed as he received our thanks. Mrs List really did sound like a remarkable person. Having lost her husband to Cancer two years prior, she was now the patron of the Cancer Association of Namibia. We were told that with her husband the List’s had nurtured a vast empire of breweries, dairies; lodges etc in Namibia and up to his death were the biggest employer after the diamond business.

With our goodbyes said and with the sun beating down we were on the road and heading for our audience with Mrs List, excited and if truth be told a little nervous. Following Johan’s directions we turned off the main road and onto the gravel track that would lead us all the way to Midgard.

‘Stunning’. What a fantastic ride. After the un-tarred tracks in West Africa this was even and easy to ride as it dipped and rose, with long sweeping bends that would see the rear wheels creep out as they lost traction on the dusty surface. The track seemed to go on as far as the eye could see leading us across country and up into the hills. The emerald green of the mountains around us are stunning after the brown dust of the last few months.

Huge iron gates set into an imposing stone frame were silently electronically opened as we approached, the signing in process took minutes and soon we had parked up made our introductions and were be taken to see Mrs List. “She’s expecting you” we were informed by the young lady that met us at reception. “It feels like we’re being taken to see the wizard of Oz”, I whispered to Lisa.

Midgard is huge! Passing immaculate gardens and several picture perfect shaped swimming pools, we found Mrs List already sitting at one of the restaurant tables. Her welcome was warm, sincere and above all else elegant, based on first impression we knew all we’d been told about her was true. The next hour was just spent talking and enjoying a wonderful lunch. This amazing lady wanted to know everything about our trip and listened and questioned as enthusiastically as anyone we met. Occasionally you meet people who have the uncanny knack to bring out the best in others and who are instantly likeable; almost inspiring…Mrs List is one of those people. She’s 84 and amazing!

With Lunch finished she showed us to our room and politely excused herself assuring us we would meet later in the evening. By 7pm we’d slept a little and enjoyed the luxurious comfort of the room, swam in the pool and had our dirty bike kit whisked away to be washed.

Met by the head ranch game manger at one of the many bars he informed us that Mrs list had sent her apologies and that we would now see her tomorrow for breakfast. In the mean time the restaurant and bar were at our disposal. We tried not to grin like idiots…I don’t think we succeeded.

Following a great nights sleep we met Mrs List for breakfast at 8am (more food! Our bodies don’t know what’s hit them!), she’d already been on the go for 3 ½ hours, getting up at 4:30am to inspect the grounds and rooms of the lodge in order to insure her high standards are maintained. This apparently she does every day. Over breakfast she explained that she had been in touch with a Mr Kurt Johansson, the president of C.A.N (Cancer Association of Namibia), had explained what we are doing and in turn been told that he’d would like to meet us and host us at one the association house for our stay in Windhoek. Bloody hell, we thought that was an impressive start to the day.

please visit C.A.N.'s website Here: www.can.org.na

With the bikes quickly loaded all that was left was to express our thanks, something which we getting plenty of practise at and take a few photos of Midgard and of course Mrs List, before continuing down the wonderful gravel track we’d arrived on.

The track would take us almost all the way to Windhoek, as long as we could avoid the baboon families that call this place home. By the early afternoon we were in Windhoek and had quickly found a BMW dealer (at GPS: S22 33 E17 05) in order to get a few bike bits sorted, one of the most important being to replace the rear suspension lower securing bolt, which had completely sheared and was only being held in place by the loaded pressure of the shock. At 5pm we were still there and using their phone to call Kurt in order our rearrange our meeting of tomorrow and to check if it was still OK to stay at House Acacia.

Met Dionisio at BMW – he has also offered us space at his apartment if we need. With the bikes better off for some professional attention we made our way to the C.A.N house and introduced ourselves to the three patients, despite illness and chemotherapy there was no hiding their interest and enthusiasm in the bikes! Matron was keen to look after us and give us food but with all the amounts we’ve been eating a cup of tea was all that was needed!

Kurt Johannesson’s office was just across from House Acacia, so no excuse for being late. what a great guy! Immaculately dressed wearing a pure white shirt – matching his hair – and a dickey-bow tie! But so relaxed and easy to talk to. He’d arranged a meeting for us with a reporter who turned up almost immediately and was already waiting to hear back form a local radio station as to when they wanted to see us. This guys a walking dynamo!

Minette Brink from the Republiken paper was already in full flow conducting the interview in Kurt’s office. He didn’t seem to mind. The article should appear tomorrow. These Namibian don’t hang about.

With our meeting and interview over, a short ride saw us back at ‘The Motorcycle Centre’ (the BMW agent) The R1100 needed a little tuning and new brake pads weren’t going to hurt. Lisa had been nursing a set of badly worn sprockets, which were being made worse by a chain worn well past it’s sell by date. Mind you, it was the chain and sprocket set that had been put on in Moscow, so they’d done her well. We’d by now already met Mike De Cock, the owner of ‘The motorcycle Centre’ and discussed our journey and importantly our mechanical needs. Mike is an ex-National champion motor-crosser, his passion for motorcycling is still wonderfully clear.

To our surprise but delight, Mike supplied the parts at cost and supplied all the labour for free. We wanted to say so much more than just thank you. As it never seems quite enough. With our bikes feeling healthier and still on a high from Mike’s generosity we treated ourselves to movies at the huge multiplex. A half price offer day was all the convincing we needed, at £2.90 for the both of us…bargain!